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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
vanguard/howa action build
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<blockquote data-quote="Damascus" data-source="post: 949411" data-attributes="member: 57878"><p>I true my rifles with a Manson Accurizing kit, and just purchased a PTG Gen 2 reamer kit - perhaps it isn't as perfect as a lathe, but then again, I am not building benchrest rifles - I build real-world rifles that are going to be shot in F-class or tactical matches, or in the field, and I have yet to build one that was left wanting in the accuracy dept.</p><p>I agree that a $7000+ quality lathe is the most precise option, but in my opinion, there are too many other variables involved in determining the rifle's potential that whatever tiny miniscule gain in accuracy I may get from a lathe setup isn't worth the cost, setup time, and risk compared with how true I can get an action with my "lathe-less" blueprinting tools. </p><p>I have found that a good action that has a square face/lug/barrel shoulder, square lug faces, lapped lugs with 100% contact, precise chamber, and match bore - the rifle is going to be more accurate than 99% of the shooters behind it... </p><p></p><p>Perhaps if I start building benchrest rifles (or rifles that resemble a 20 lb. pressure barrel mounted in a stock needing a bipod that looks like something off a star wars set) that need to be capable of .10 MOA, I'll invest in a larger lathe that I would trust cutting on an action with. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> </p><p></p><p>My comment about facing the rear of the integral lug - I was referring to a Howa 1500 that I worked on several years ago in .300 Win mounted in a B&C stock that kept having trouble with floating zeroes, long story short was tracked down to the integral lug being slightly canted, causing off-center pressure on the action under recoil. Since it was butted up against an alloy bedding block, glass bedding wasn't my first choice as a fix. I simply measure and re-faced the lug with an end mill, problem solved.</p><p></p><p>Every smith' has their own thoughts and practices on performing certain jobs, or working on certain rifles, I simply stated mine concerning said rifle.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Damascus, post: 949411, member: 57878"] I true my rifles with a Manson Accurizing kit, and just purchased a PTG Gen 2 reamer kit - perhaps it isn't as perfect as a lathe, but then again, I am not building benchrest rifles - I build real-world rifles that are going to be shot in F-class or tactical matches, or in the field, and I have yet to build one that was left wanting in the accuracy dept. I agree that a $7000+ quality lathe is the most precise option, but in my opinion, there are too many other variables involved in determining the rifle's potential that whatever tiny miniscule gain in accuracy I may get from a lathe setup isn't worth the cost, setup time, and risk compared with how true I can get an action with my "lathe-less" blueprinting tools. I have found that a good action that has a square face/lug/barrel shoulder, square lug faces, lapped lugs with 100% contact, precise chamber, and match bore - the rifle is going to be more accurate than 99% of the shooters behind it... Perhaps if I start building benchrest rifles (or rifles that resemble a 20 lb. pressure barrel mounted in a stock needing a bipod that looks like something off a star wars set) that need to be capable of .10 MOA, I'll invest in a larger lathe that I would trust cutting on an action with. :) My comment about facing the rear of the integral lug - I was referring to a Howa 1500 that I worked on several years ago in .300 Win mounted in a B&C stock that kept having trouble with floating zeroes, long story short was tracked down to the integral lug being slightly canted, causing off-center pressure on the action under recoil. Since it was butted up against an alloy bedding block, glass bedding wasn't my first choice as a fix. I simply measure and re-faced the lug with an end mill, problem solved. Every smith' has their own thoughts and practices on performing certain jobs, or working on certain rifles, I simply stated mine concerning said rifle. [/QUOTE]
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vanguard/howa action build
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