Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Trouble with Scope Mounting - Used up all Elevation?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="villagelightsmith" data-source="post: 1829064" data-attributes="member: 68421"><p>Each ring needs either identical inserts or 1+ and 1- (matched) inserts. The inserts are each marked + or -, with a number of 0 to 3. Visualize. The + insert is a bit thicker. The - insert is a bit thinner. The numbers tell you how much thicker or thinner. If you've got a -3 on the top, you might do well to have a +3 on the bottom. Or if you need no offsets, a pair of "zero" inserts would be called for. Visualize.</p><p></p><p> Before anything else, I set the scope on a pair of machinist's V-blocks and rotate the scope while looking at a distant object. I fiddle with the adjustments until the crosshairs remain centered when the scope is rotated. Purpose => I am trying to align the optical axis with the axis of the scope tube.</p><p></p><p> Then I grab to a pair of medium or tall Burris Signature rings. I like taller rings to get the bullet's flight's intersections farther downrange and give me a little more latitude for point-blank shooting. The critters can't tell much difference.</p><p> </p><p> Each ring gets a pair of inserts. The rear ring gets either "0" inserts top and bottom, or a + insert on the bottom and a - insert on the top. This raises that end of the scope to a point above the axis of the bare rings.</p><p></p><p>The front scope ring gets inserts either identical to the rear (rarely) or more often, a - insert on the bottom and a + insert of [equal numeration] in the top. This drops the front of the scope so the crosshairs will intersect the bullet's flight at some point. In theory.</p><p></p><p> Then, with much genuflection and secret incantations, I try to rotate the inserts a bit inside the ring to get the horizontal gremlins worked out. Leaving the rings anchored to their mounts and just loosening their grip on the scope tube until I get it right is the easiest way for me. Always bring that little wrench. Or two.</p><p></p><p> One range day I was working up a load on a little Fireball when all the magic worked. The bullets were flying far too fast, but by the end of the day they were punching the paper within 0.15" every time. Feeling well satisfied with the results, I began tearing down the bench stuff and loading the truck. Then I picked up the rifle ... by the scope. The durned scope rotated and slipped easily in the rings. The rings and inserts had been tight on the rifle but finger-loose on the scope the whole day.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="villagelightsmith, post: 1829064, member: 68421"] Each ring needs either identical inserts or 1+ and 1- (matched) inserts. The inserts are each marked + or -, with a number of 0 to 3. Visualize. The + insert is a bit thicker. The - insert is a bit thinner. The numbers tell you how much thicker or thinner. If you've got a -3 on the top, you might do well to have a +3 on the bottom. Or if you need no offsets, a pair of "zero" inserts would be called for. Visualize. Before anything else, I set the scope on a pair of machinist's V-blocks and rotate the scope while looking at a distant object. I fiddle with the adjustments until the crosshairs remain centered when the scope is rotated. Purpose => I am trying to align the optical axis with the axis of the scope tube. Then I grab to a pair of medium or tall Burris Signature rings. I like taller rings to get the bullet's flight's intersections farther downrange and give me a little more latitude for point-blank shooting. The critters can't tell much difference. Each ring gets a pair of inserts. The rear ring gets either "0" inserts top and bottom, or a + insert on the bottom and a - insert on the top. This raises that end of the scope to a point above the axis of the bare rings. The front scope ring gets inserts either identical to the rear (rarely) or more often, a - insert on the bottom and a + insert of [equal numeration] in the top. This drops the front of the scope so the crosshairs will intersect the bullet's flight at some point. In theory. Then, with much genuflection and secret incantations, I try to rotate the inserts a bit inside the ring to get the horizontal gremlins worked out. Leaving the rings anchored to their mounts and just loosening their grip on the scope tube until I get it right is the easiest way for me. Always bring that little wrench. Or two. One range day I was working up a load on a little Fireball when all the magic worked. The bullets were flying far too fast, but by the end of the day they were punching the paper within 0.15" every time. Feeling well satisfied with the results, I began tearing down the bench stuff and loading the truck. Then I picked up the rifle ... by the scope. The durned scope rotated and slipped easily in the rings. The rings and inserts had been tight on the rifle but finger-loose on the scope the whole day. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Trouble with Scope Mounting - Used up all Elevation?
Top