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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
torx wrench broke off in base screw
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 966546" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>first of all blue Loctite, or 242 is made for screws larger than 1/4", and not recommended for anything smaller than a #10 screw (even that's marginal). You should be using purple, or 222 Loctite. </p><p> </p><p>Now is the time to remove the bad screw, and it's really not as bad as it looks. You said Allen wrench, and then you said Torx. Which one? The Torx is actually easier to get it due to the way they are splined. The hex key will often twist into the metal of the screw, and can be a pain in the rear to get out. If the wrench head will move around a little bit, you might try a magnet. Won't work? OK, we need a good soldering iron, a very fine ***** punch, and a small hammer. First try to work the wrench head loose with the ***** punch (sometimes you can also do this with an ice pick, but be careful not to break the tip off and then make it even tighter). OK you got the wrench head out of the screw! Now you'll need a wrench that fits tight in the damaged screw head. Here's some tricks I've used in the past (I've literally removed hundreds of those small screws in the past):</p><p> </p><p>* to get a wrench to fit the hex socket often means you have to revert to the wrong sized wrench. I've used metric in SAE and vise versa. Another trick is brass shim stock wrapped around the hex key</p><p> </p><p>* Loctite melts at about 220 degrees, and a soldering iron will do the trick nicely without messing with the action. Forget a torch!!!! Heated steel will almost always shrink after being heated very hot, and then makes the thread fit even tighter. But with the soldering iron most all the heat is in the screw itself. If you have a good drill press, look for a left hand drill and the soldering iron. If the drill press will not run counter clockwise, then use the tap drill size and drill the head off the thread. Then heat the remaining thread part and remove it with a small pair of vise grips.</p><p> </p><p>* with a broken stub left in the screw, you have the choice of a carbide brill bit or the Hi-Roc. I'd go with the Hi-Roc everytime over a standard carbide drill bit. It will cut thru 99% of the allen and torx wrenches. Just make sure you have a good solid vise and table mount. I recommend a Bridgeport mill. Be sure to run a tap in the holes before going back together.</p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 966546, member: 25383"] first of all blue Loctite, or 242 is made for screws larger than 1/4", and not recommended for anything smaller than a #10 screw (even that's marginal). You should be using purple, or 222 Loctite. Now is the time to remove the bad screw, and it's really not as bad as it looks. You said Allen wrench, and then you said Torx. Which one? The Torx is actually easier to get it due to the way they are splined. The hex key will often twist into the metal of the screw, and can be a pain in the rear to get out. If the wrench head will move around a little bit, you might try a magnet. Won't work? OK, we need a good soldering iron, a very fine ***** punch, and a small hammer. First try to work the wrench head loose with the ***** punch (sometimes you can also do this with an ice pick, but be careful not to break the tip off and then make it even tighter). OK you got the wrench head out of the screw! Now you'll need a wrench that fits tight in the damaged screw head. Here's some tricks I've used in the past (I've literally removed hundreds of those small screws in the past): * to get a wrench to fit the hex socket often means you have to revert to the wrong sized wrench. I've used metric in SAE and vise versa. Another trick is brass shim stock wrapped around the hex key * Loctite melts at about 220 degrees, and a soldering iron will do the trick nicely without messing with the action. Forget a torch!!!! Heated steel will almost always shrink after being heated very hot, and then makes the thread fit even tighter. But with the soldering iron most all the heat is in the screw itself. If you have a good drill press, look for a left hand drill and the soldering iron. If the drill press will not run counter clockwise, then use the tap drill size and drill the head off the thread. Then heat the remaining thread part and remove it with a small pair of vise grips. * with a broken stub left in the screw, you have the choice of a carbide brill bit or the Hi-Roc. I'd go with the Hi-Roc everytime over a standard carbide drill bit. It will cut thru 99% of the allen and torx wrenches. Just make sure you have a good solid vise and table mount. I recommend a Bridgeport mill. Be sure to run a tap in the holes before going back together. gary [/QUOTE]
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torx wrench broke off in base screw
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