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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
torx wrench broke off in base screw
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 1054105" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>OK, you now have tried a few tricks of the trade, and some work and others didn't.</p><p>Very small screws (#8 and smaller) can be a bitch to remove. I think it's time to find someone with a Bridgeport mill or something similar. Drill the screw head out with the tap drill sized end mill. Now you should have a small stub sticking out. If I were doing it, I would use a two flute end mill. Do not remove the action from the vise, or move the slides. Sometimes you can clamp a small Visegrip pliers on the stub. Lets hope so.</p><p>Do not try to remove the stub yet, but do a recheck to make sure you are centered up with the screw thread. The best penetrating oil made is Kroil. I would try soaking the threads over night. You tried Acetone, and it worked to a certain extent. Try model airplane fuel! Just a few drops every half hour or so. This stuff is similar to the Loctite clean up fluid. Would be nice to be able to completely soak the action overnight in Acetone or finger nail polish remover over night. Yet I'd try the Kroil first.</p><p> </p><p>The real issue here is that the messed up screw is harder than the action it's threaded into. A drill will always take the path of least resistance, and try to go to the softer metal. That's why I said to use a two flute end mill as it won't. They sell them in tap drill sizes. </p><p> </p><p>Next question: by chance is this screw over the barrel thread? If so loosen the barrel nut! You may have the screw bottomed out into the barrel thread, and action like a set screw. The good part is that you already have the rail mounted, and can use it to set up your alignment. Just be glad your not doing this with a 4-40 screw stuck in aluminum!</p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 1054105, member: 25383"] OK, you now have tried a few tricks of the trade, and some work and others didn't. Very small screws (#8 and smaller) can be a bitch to remove. I think it's time to find someone with a Bridgeport mill or something similar. Drill the screw head out with the tap drill sized end mill. Now you should have a small stub sticking out. If I were doing it, I would use a two flute end mill. Do not remove the action from the vise, or move the slides. Sometimes you can clamp a small Visegrip pliers on the stub. Lets hope so. Do not try to remove the stub yet, but do a recheck to make sure you are centered up with the screw thread. The best penetrating oil made is Kroil. I would try soaking the threads over night. You tried Acetone, and it worked to a certain extent. Try model airplane fuel! Just a few drops every half hour or so. This stuff is similar to the Loctite clean up fluid. Would be nice to be able to completely soak the action overnight in Acetone or finger nail polish remover over night. Yet I'd try the Kroil first. The real issue here is that the messed up screw is harder than the action it's threaded into. A drill will always take the path of least resistance, and try to go to the softer metal. That's why I said to use a two flute end mill as it won't. They sell them in tap drill sizes. Next question: by chance is this screw over the barrel thread? If so loosen the barrel nut! You may have the screw bottomed out into the barrel thread, and action like a set screw. The good part is that you already have the rail mounted, and can use it to set up your alignment. Just be glad your not doing this with a 4-40 screw stuck in aluminum! gary [/QUOTE]
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torx wrench broke off in base screw
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