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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
Technique advise for Mtn Rifle
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<blockquote data-quote="cowboy" data-source="post: 995963" data-attributes="member: 8833"><p>Everything WildRose says above has a lot of truth in it. Price: at 100 bucks is a good deal, at 150 bucks it's on the high side of fair deal. If you 've never done it before, don't have the knowledge or know how I think 100-150 bucks on a 1000 dollar rifle is pretty fair price, and it's a really good deal if it solves your problem.</p><p></p><p>On a lighter note: what is your trigger like and what kind of shape is your barrel crown in? I don't care if it's new - seen new ones with iffy crowns/triggers. If you are happy with both your trigger and crown then I'd do a little test: get on the bench and run 10 dry fires and watch to see if you have any scope reticle movement when you drop the hammer. If in one of those 10 rounds you see your reticle move you've got other problems to address. </p><p></p><p>I will tell you this. I have two of the very first (mid 1980's) Rem 700 mountain rifles, 22" barrel (.550") at the end in '06 and .280 rem. I shot the barrel out of the .280 and used the action for a new build. Still using the '06 with 208 gr. Amax's and that will make you pay attention when you light a primer. With both rifles I have to really concentrate to be directly behind the rifle. If you get on a bench, get comfortable, then lean sideways into it - them suckers not only jump up but want to bounce to the right (I'm a right hand shooter).</p><p></p><p>I've never seen a rifle shoot worse after a good bedding job and it will give you a lot of insurance for future use but I got a feeling with a lot of dry firing you can do nothing but improve your results. Any gun that I own that I would even come close to be called a 'tack driver' weights twice as much as these light mountain rifles - but if I'm headed goat or sheep hunting - the tack drivers ain't strapped to my pack.</p><p></p><p>Good luck and stay with it.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="cowboy, post: 995963, member: 8833"] Everything WildRose says above has a lot of truth in it. Price: at 100 bucks is a good deal, at 150 bucks it's on the high side of fair deal. If you 've never done it before, don't have the knowledge or know how I think 100-150 bucks on a 1000 dollar rifle is pretty fair price, and it's a really good deal if it solves your problem. On a lighter note: what is your trigger like and what kind of shape is your barrel crown in? I don't care if it's new - seen new ones with iffy crowns/triggers. If you are happy with both your trigger and crown then I'd do a little test: get on the bench and run 10 dry fires and watch to see if you have any scope reticle movement when you drop the hammer. If in one of those 10 rounds you see your reticle move you've got other problems to address. I will tell you this. I have two of the very first (mid 1980's) Rem 700 mountain rifles, 22" barrel (.550") at the end in '06 and .280 rem. I shot the barrel out of the .280 and used the action for a new build. Still using the '06 with 208 gr. Amax's and that will make you pay attention when you light a primer. With both rifles I have to really concentrate to be directly behind the rifle. If you get on a bench, get comfortable, then lean sideways into it - them suckers not only jump up but want to bounce to the right (I'm a right hand shooter). I've never seen a rifle shoot worse after a good bedding job and it will give you a lot of insurance for future use but I got a feeling with a lot of dry firing you can do nothing but improve your results. Any gun that I own that I would even come close to be called a 'tack driver' weights twice as much as these light mountain rifles - but if I'm headed goat or sheep hunting - the tack drivers ain't strapped to my pack. Good luck and stay with it. [/QUOTE]
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