I just received my Tac Elite back from pse after a minor repair, they also replaced the string and cables. I then installed A dropaway rest and timed the yokes and paper tuned getting perfect bullet hole.Everything is tight but it wants to continuously shoot to the left.Wondering what other people are doing to correct this?
Tac Elite shooting left
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I known this bow very well, enough to know, paper tuning is not a sure sign your bow is tuned properly. If you compare field tips to broadheads you will see a big differ in flight if tuning is off, you should be able to look down the arrow from the front of the bow(do not draw back), it should lined up with the crosshairs in the scope and the nock resting position when the bow is at full draw, if it is off, move your rest one way or another (of coarse when looking overtop of your xbow at the shaft the shaft should be center on the rail if your nocking point is centered), I fine tune my tac ord and tac 15 by sight of alignment of arrow then make adjustments per results seen by comparing differ in flight between field tips and broadheads
If you bh's are high to the left from the ft's, your rest would be moved down and right
1/2 groups are very common for me at 70 yds using selected arrrows
Number all your arrows, be aware I have seen, depending on the batch up to 30% of my arrows do not shoot acceptable for me, most of the time I can refletch them, I have only thrown 2 away, however I do seporate my arrows 1/2" group, 1" group, 1 1/2"group at 70 yds
good luck, Btw this info is based on the fact, your limbs are timed properly
Also I stay with the whisker biscuit, I trimmed it and will not bother fleching, I feel dropaways with this bow is a pain in the ars, wouldn't it be better to help stabilized the arrow through take-off?
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To each his own. I ditched the Whisker Biscuit, and installed a drop-way rest.
I will put it this way. No pain, all gain and I would not go back.
Are you saying your arrows appear to be curving to Left?
Or are you saying that regardless of windage adjustments your arrows always hit left of where you aim?
How did you gain from it? Not doubting you , It just seems to be another part that could malfunction to me, I get 1/2" groups at 70 yds with the biscuit
No more damaged Arrow fletching. Which means no "Flyer" arrows due to fletching being damaged on a shot. Having to re-fletch an arrow means that arrow will now fly differently.
The arrows are clear upon release. Which eliminates another variable that impacted arrow flight. Easier tuning.
Slight speed gain of about 3 fps.
As stated I have no fletching damage with a trimmed biscuit (which is easily done) since trimming biscuit no speed loss, what groups do you get at long ranges?
docgbwhite
Member
I have been following this thread simply because I am a new Tac-15i shooter, having the same problems on shooting to the right, target arrows vs BH's. I did the look down the arrow thing, and found my arrow canted right, as I faced it. I moved the bisket left, so the arrow was straight, or at least appeared to be in line with the scope crosshairs, and found that the bh'S NOW SHOOT ABOUT HALF THe DISTANCE THEY DID BEFORE, but still to the right by 2-3". Do I now move the biskit even further left?
I also tried Aero-bolt arrows, sure enuff, they cut groups with BH's to 25% of what they had been with factory arrows, using both Phat Heads and RamCats, the most accurate BH remains the Rocket triple blade expandable 100 gr, which groups right with the target arrows. No adjustment needed. Groups about 1 inch at 30 yards. Considering this old man's bad eyes and shakes, that's not bad. I solved the problem of premature deployment by removing the lightweight rubber ring and substituting a heavier one from Ace Hardware. Works great in my Yellow Jacket block.
, Most interesting: I also discovered that I had bitten off far more than I could easily chew by buying such a fast crossbow. I know a bunch about long range muzzleloading, but sure nuff not much of it translates to this crossbow. Now question: if spine is so important and so effective, who offers spine adjustment and re-fletching services for Tac-15 arrows? I am too busy to do it myself. Thanks for putting up with all this. DOC White
I also tried Aero-bolt arrows, sure enuff, they cut groups with BH's to 25% of what they had been with factory arrows, using both Phat Heads and RamCats, the most accurate BH remains the Rocket triple blade expandable 100 gr, which groups right with the target arrows. No adjustment needed. Groups about 1 inch at 30 yards. Considering this old man's bad eyes and shakes, that's not bad. I solved the problem of premature deployment by removing the lightweight rubber ring and substituting a heavier one from Ace Hardware. Works great in my Yellow Jacket block.
, Most interesting: I also discovered that I had bitten off far more than I could easily chew by buying such a fast crossbow. I know a bunch about long range muzzleloading, but sure nuff not much of it translates to this crossbow. Now question: if spine is so important and so effective, who offers spine adjustment and re-fletching services for Tac-15 arrows? I am too busy to do it myself. Thanks for putting up with all this. DOC White
yes you can move the rest a hair more to the left, but be carefull very very small amount, you are close,, Stay with the rocket xl 100gr. buy lots of arrows # them and record shots you may chose not to shoot a couple at further ranges, refletching a lessor shooting arrow did not seem to help all the time.
When you # your arrow, make sure the # is always up when you shoot, I have had certain arrows that would shoot to the right of the other arrows 2" @ 50 yds so I would flip the number of that arrow upside down and it would then shoot with the other arrows, then I would write (say 10u on fletching) meaning that arrow needs to be shot the other way
Also I would like to add ,I do not like any play in the knocking loop on the string, I would add the proper string to take up play in the knocking of the arrow, but keep in mind if you do this you may have to readjust your rest, if your rest is out anyway say over to far to the right you could take up play in the knocking loop and tune your bow by adding string to the left side only on the knocking loop, add super glue to your string ends to keep them from coming apart
This bow can do amazing things at 100 yds if you fine tune it and select your arrows.
If you are not looking for that kind of accuracy these tips are helpful but are not as important good luck
When you # your arrow, make sure the # is always up when you shoot, I have had certain arrows that would shoot to the right of the other arrows 2" @ 50 yds so I would flip the number of that arrow upside down and it would then shoot with the other arrows, then I would write (say 10u on fletching) meaning that arrow needs to be shot the other way
Also I would like to add ,I do not like any play in the knocking loop on the string, I would add the proper string to take up play in the knocking of the arrow, but keep in mind if you do this you may have to readjust your rest, if your rest is out anyway say over to far to the right you could take up play in the knocking loop and tune your bow by adding string to the left side only on the knocking loop, add super glue to your string ends to keep them from coming apart
This bow can do amazing things at 100 yds if you fine tune it and select your arrows.
If you are not looking for that kind of accuracy these tips are helpful but are not as important good luck
docgbwhite
Member
So who does spine testing and refletching? Or is it worth it. Aerobolts cost $30+ with PSE half that. Is spining and fletching so prohibitive it's not economic ? DOC
If you are trying to achieve center shot, whereby Broadheads and Target points hit close together, then for moment forget aligning with scope cross hairs.
Take a look at this thread for method for decent start at setting center shot.
http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f108/those-who-love-setting-center-shot-113876/
For final setting of center shot...
You need to create a frame to hold newspapers or butcher paper. In past, I have used a picture frame with large clamping paper clips for holding paper. I currently have a PVC pipe frame with metal spring clamps at four corners. I use magnets to clamp paper to metal spring clamps.
You will need to strip the fletching off at least one arrow, I prefer having two bare shafts to work with when paper tuning for center shot. Mark the bareshaft(s) to where you can knock same side always up.
Start by shooting a few arrows through paper at 5-yards. Move arrow rest up/down to reduce up/down tears. Move arrow rest left/right to reduce left/right tears. Don't make up/down and left/right adjustments at same time.
Once you get bullet like holes at 5-yards, move out to 10-yards.
Make sure you always knock the bareshaft arrows with same side up.
One caveat: You may not be able to get bullet holes through paper. One of the reasons is extreme power of TAC-15 vs. stiffness of arrows. I try to find weak side of arrow spline and install knock to where arrow bends away from TAC-15 rail.
Once you minimized the tearing up/down and left/right with bare shafts, you can then move on to adjusting the sights or scope on your TAC-15 like you would a regular rifle.
One last warning: Use a paper target with multiple bullseyes for sighting in your TAC-15. Otherwise you may be buying new arrows.
Here is another thread on centershot tunning and sighting in (see jon.henry755):
http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f108/cant-get-my-tac-15-i-paper-tune-103764/
It is worth it, if you are serious about getting most accuracy out of TAC-15.
You can buy arrows that are already Spline tested, marked, and fletched from Aerobolt.
Doing it yourself is not easy nor straight forward.
One method is making or buying a spline tester capable of flexing a TAC-15 arrow shaft. That means a spline tester with more than normal pressure or weight to get TAC-15 arrow shaft's to flex. Read as not easy to make or cheap to buy.
Another method is experimental. A few of us arrow flingers, have been testing using a clamping system to squeeze an arrow shaft from pointy end to knock end. Pressure is applied till arrow shaft bends. Noting bend direction, pressure is released.
Arrow shaft is rotated so bend direction is upward. Process is repeated until arrow shaft is for most part constantly bending upwards. A mark is then made on top of shaft indicating that is weak side of arrow's Spline.
Frankly, I would drop the cash on shafts that are already Spline tested and marked.
Another Spline testing method of determining weak vs. strong side of arrow shaft.
Very interesting and inventive. This method's advantage is it is Dynamic.
Flat Line Oscillation carbon arrow prep tool
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFm5hpcm-5g"]Flat Line Oscillation carbon arrow prep tool - YouTube[/ame]
Very interesting and inventive. This method's advantage is it is Dynamic.
Flat Line Oscillation carbon arrow prep tool
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFm5hpcm-5g"]Flat Line Oscillation carbon arrow prep tool - YouTube[/ame]
