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<blockquote data-quote="MagnumManiac" data-source="post: 1570287" data-attributes="member: 10755"><p>(1) I'll give you a well known tip in the engine building industry.</p><p>Use moly lube EVERY TIME you remove the screws upon re-assembly and buy yourself a set of 'T' handle Allen wrenches. The trick is to tighten the bolts until the handle moves and the shaft doesn't. This torque is roughly 65in/lbs on a 6/32 Allen wrench. As Allen wrenches get larger, so does the torque imparted to twist the handle.</p><p>I can use a breaker bar by feel to get 100ft/lbs on a head bolt almost every single time and do final torque down with a graduated torque wrench.</p><p>When a thread 'cracks' when you loosen it after 24 hours of sitting, you know you have stretched the threads around .001"-.002". This is what you want, even with a rifle.</p><p>(2) I lap the bolts where needed in the raceways. I use a lot of CZ550 Safari actions, New they are very tight and need polishing just as you describe, BUT LESS IS MORE. As soon as the tightness eases you need to stop.</p><p>I also lap the bolt lugs often on actions that the customer doesn't want a full blueprint on.</p><p>Often factory actions/rifles only have one lug contacting the recess on lockup, this needs addressing. You use Prussian Blue, or similar marking die, so you can see the contact point. The lug without any swipe is NOT TOUCHED, only the lug touching the action is lapped.</p><p>You lap this lug with hand pressure ONLY. The bolt MUST be stripped of the firing pin assembly.</p><p>You lap with FINE grit valve lapping paste, checking contact often, until the OTHER lug is making 50-75% contact swipe.</p><p>Going further is not necessary, as it often doesn't improve anything beyond that point. As long as both lugs are making contact at firing, the improvement has been made.</p><p>(3) We don't get Superformance powder here often, so I have never used it. </p><p></p><p>Cheers.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MagnumManiac, post: 1570287, member: 10755"] (1) I’ll give you a well known tip in the engine building industry. Use moly lube EVERY TIME you remove the screws upon re-assembly and buy yourself a set of ‘T’ handle Allen wrenches. The trick is to tighten the bolts until the handle moves and the shaft doesn’t. This torque is roughly 65in/lbs on a 6/32 Allen wrench. As Allen wrenches get larger, so does the torque imparted to twist the handle. I can use a breaker bar by feel to get 100ft/lbs on a head bolt almost every single time and do final torque down with a graduated torque wrench. When a thread ‘cracks’ when you loosen it after 24 hours of sitting, you know you have stretched the threads around .001”-.002”. This is what you want, even with a rifle. (2) I lap the bolts where needed in the raceways. I use a lot of CZ550 Safari actions, New they are very tight and need polishing just as you describe, BUT LESS IS MORE. As soon as the tightness eases you need to stop. I also lap the bolt lugs often on actions that the customer doesn’t want a full blueprint on. Often factory actions/rifles only have one lug contacting the recess on lockup, this needs addressing. You use Prussian Blue, or similar marking die, so you can see the contact point. The lug without any swipe is NOT TOUCHED, only the lug touching the action is lapped. You lap this lug with hand pressure ONLY. The bolt MUST be stripped of the firing pin assembly. You lap with FINE grit valve lapping paste, checking contact often, until the OTHER lug is making 50-75% contact swipe. Going further is not necessary, as it often doesn’t improve anything beyond that point. As long as both lugs are making contact at firing, the improvement has been made. (3) We don’t get Superformance powder here often, so I have never used it. Cheers. [/QUOTE]
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