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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 1168442" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>I'm going to assume your shooting three shot groups. With five shots this good, I'd leave it along, but with two or three exceptions:</p><p> </p><p>* you might try a few different primers, and even a different lot number from the same brand. It's a simple change, and sometimes yields good results. Also while on the subject of primers, are you reaming the primer pockets? Seating primers consistently can help group sizes a little. I use the K&M tool, but Sinclair and a couple others are very good. I like Federal primers, but also only use certain lot numbers. Have had some good luck with CCI, and even some Winchesters.</p><p></p><p>* How close (or should I say far away) are you to the lands when seating bullets? Also how consistent is your bullet seating? I have found that a 6mm bullet seems to like .005" or less distance to the lands. My last 6mm went from .550" five shot groups to a solid .380" by changing the seating depth to .0025" off the lands (87 grain Hornaday). </p><p></p><p>* Have you ever compared an unsized once fired case to a sized case. I use a NECO gauge with a .0005" indicator. Also use a home built one with a similar indicator. You may not like the results! I use mostly Forster dies, and I think they are about as good as it gets. When you install the sizing die, are you aligning it? I highly recommend Fred Sinclair's hand book on reloading. </p><p></p><p> ***************</p><p>Assuming your cases are very good after being sized, I'd measure the over all length of each case. Find the shortest one, and trim all the cases back to where the shortest case just cleans up square. Sounds like a lot of extra work, but I'm from the school of thought that thinks a case lip that's not square with the centerline will hit the rifling a little off center. I trim with a Wilson, after fighting thru several others. </p><p></p><p>Now for the deal breaker! Lets hope you have a big bunch of cases. Some guys like weighing cases and a few others go by case volume. I moved over to volume a few years back after weighing a bunch of brass. Some use water, and others use powder. I like fine grained salt. Brass scales differently from lot to lot even though the volume is identical. Learned this from by weighing identical cubes of solid brass. I often do a test at the range by reloading the same case five times and indexing it when it goes into the chamber. That's how I learned to shoot better.</p><p></p><p>Next step is to see if the scope is in a bind (rings are not in line with each other). Are the base, or bases tight. Maybe even needing to be bedded. Loosen the action screws and re-torque them properly. Try a little talcum powder in your front rest. Leather bags can be sticky. A bipod will never compete with a good front rest. Lastly if all this fails, you might want to have the recoil lug bedded.</p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 1168442, member: 25383"] I'm going to assume your shooting three shot groups. With five shots this good, I'd leave it along, but with two or three exceptions: * you might try a few different primers, and even a different lot number from the same brand. It's a simple change, and sometimes yields good results. Also while on the subject of primers, are you reaming the primer pockets? Seating primers consistently can help group sizes a little. I use the K&M tool, but Sinclair and a couple others are very good. I like Federal primers, but also only use certain lot numbers. Have had some good luck with CCI, and even some Winchesters. * How close (or should I say far away) are you to the lands when seating bullets? Also how consistent is your bullet seating? I have found that a 6mm bullet seems to like .005" or less distance to the lands. My last 6mm went from .550" five shot groups to a solid .380" by changing the seating depth to .0025" off the lands (87 grain Hornaday). * Have you ever compared an unsized once fired case to a sized case. I use a NECO gauge with a .0005" indicator. Also use a home built one with a similar indicator. You may not like the results! I use mostly Forster dies, and I think they are about as good as it gets. When you install the sizing die, are you aligning it? I highly recommend Fred Sinclair's hand book on reloading. *************** Assuming your cases are very good after being sized, I'd measure the over all length of each case. Find the shortest one, and trim all the cases back to where the shortest case just cleans up square. Sounds like a lot of extra work, but I'm from the school of thought that thinks a case lip that's not square with the centerline will hit the rifling a little off center. I trim with a Wilson, after fighting thru several others. Now for the deal breaker! Lets hope you have a big bunch of cases. Some guys like weighing cases and a few others go by case volume. I moved over to volume a few years back after weighing a bunch of brass. Some use water, and others use powder. I like fine grained salt. Brass scales differently from lot to lot even though the volume is identical. Learned this from by weighing identical cubes of solid brass. I often do a test at the range by reloading the same case five times and indexing it when it goes into the chamber. That's how I learned to shoot better. Next step is to see if the scope is in a bind (rings are not in line with each other). Are the base, or bases tight. Maybe even needing to be bedded. Loosen the action screws and re-torque them properly. Try a little talcum powder in your front rest. Leather bags can be sticky. A bipod will never compete with a good front rest. Lastly if all this fails, you might want to have the recoil lug bedded. gary [/QUOTE]
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