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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Stock Torque
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<blockquote data-quote="AZShooter" data-source="post: 1852506" data-attributes="member: 5219"><p>Great question!</p><p></p><p>I torque all my rifles to a specific torque. It varies with wood, laminate and synthetic and if it is unbedded, bedded or pillar bedded. </p><p></p><p>My typical lower settings are 35 in/lb rear and 40 in/lb front. Upper end torque is 55 ft/lb with a pillar bedded synthetic. If you have a production rifle like your HS you can call and ask what they recommend. IIRC the aluminum bedding block stocks go as high as 65 in/lb.</p><p></p><p>Some rifles, like the savage mentioned above, will show a preference for a particular torque. I have a few rifles that started at the 35 rear and 40 front that responded to 40 rear and 45 front or more. I know this takes time but worth it as it generally only needs to be done once.</p><p></p><p>The most radical change I have seen is when using a Ruger 10-22. Friend has a Tony Kidd custom and I have one I put together with some fore end pressure. Because the 10-22 only has one screw, the torque will change groups size and do it with as little as 5 in/lb! And this is with bull barrels!</p><p></p><p>Main thing IMO is to have a value and use it in the future should you disassemble and reassemble the rifle. It is worth mentioning that some rifles will settle in after being taken apart and require a second torqueing of the action screws after firing a few rounds. </p><p></p><p>Another thing worth mentioning with walnut stocked rifles is to loosen the screws during the off season as climate change (dirty word) will alter the moisture content in the wood. It cannot be good to have tight screws when the climate was dry then a change to higher humidity and the resultant pressures against the stock. (az has a summer monsoon and there is a big change!)</p><p></p><p>Ross</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="AZShooter, post: 1852506, member: 5219"] Great question! I torque all my rifles to a specific torque. It varies with wood, laminate and synthetic and if it is unbedded, bedded or pillar bedded. My typical lower settings are 35 in/lb rear and 40 in/lb front. Upper end torque is 55 ft/lb with a pillar bedded synthetic. If you have a production rifle like your HS you can call and ask what they recommend. IIRC the aluminum bedding block stocks go as high as 65 in/lb. Some rifles, like the savage mentioned above, will show a preference for a particular torque. I have a few rifles that started at the 35 rear and 40 front that responded to 40 rear and 45 front or more. I know this takes time but worth it as it generally only needs to be done once. The most radical change I have seen is when using a Ruger 10-22. Friend has a Tony Kidd custom and I have one I put together with some fore end pressure. Because the 10-22 only has one screw, the torque will change groups size and do it with as little as 5 in/lb! And this is with bull barrels! Main thing IMO is to have a value and use it in the future should you disassemble and reassemble the rifle. It is worth mentioning that some rifles will settle in after being taken apart and require a second torqueing of the action screws after firing a few rounds. Another thing worth mentioning with walnut stocked rifles is to loosen the screws during the off season as climate change (dirty word) will alter the moisture content in the wood. It cannot be good to have tight screws when the climate was dry then a change to higher humidity and the resultant pressures against the stock. (az has a summer monsoon and there is a big change!) Ross [/QUOTE]
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