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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Stock Bedding Question
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<blockquote data-quote="eshorebwhntr" data-source="post: 1089052" data-attributes="member: 17112"><p>I've only bedded a few rifles in my day but will let you know what I do and hopefully help you with your decision. I'm not a gunsmith at all. I've just done my own guns and a few for friends.</p><p> </p><p>JE Custom was dead on with everything he has said. My experience echo's all his comments. I remove a small amount of material around the recoil lug recess area and that's it (other than drilling for pillars). The important part is keeping the surface area optimal to bond to the compound.</p><p> </p><p>When I bed the stock I ultimately want a stress free snug fit between the action and stock. I don't remove any stock material other than in the recoil lug area after I have drilled, installed and test fit the pillars. For this I chuck the stock in the mill (you can use a dremel, just be careful) and remove a small amount of material on the ACTION SIDE of the recoil lug recess. Around a 1/4" is sufficient. I do this so that the recoil lug is pulling up against a good, solid, hard, mated surface. I also go out to the sides of the stock in the recoil lug recess and cut 2 "ears" back toward the ACTION SIDE of the recess. This, again, is just give the recoil lug area more room for epoxy to set and grab.</p><p> </p><p>I also tape off the front, sides, and bottom of the recoil lug with 10 mil plumbers tape. I put 2 wraps of the tape down the length of the barrel to rest in the barrel channel of the stock. In theory this provides a minimum of 20 mil clearance the length of the barrel.</p><p> </p><p>Test fit everything several times with your pillars, bottom metal, action and stock before setting anything. Run yourself through the whole process mentally each time so that all the tools you need are handy and your not scrambling around.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="eshorebwhntr, post: 1089052, member: 17112"] I've only bedded a few rifles in my day but will let you know what I do and hopefully help you with your decision. I'm not a gunsmith at all. I've just done my own guns and a few for friends. JE Custom was dead on with everything he has said. My experience echo's all his comments. I remove a small amount of material around the recoil lug recess area and that's it (other than drilling for pillars). The important part is keeping the surface area optimal to bond to the compound. When I bed the stock I ultimately want a stress free snug fit between the action and stock. I don't remove any stock material other than in the recoil lug area after I have drilled, installed and test fit the pillars. For this I chuck the stock in the mill (you can use a dremel, just be careful) and remove a small amount of material on the ACTION SIDE of the recoil lug recess. Around a 1/4" is sufficient. I do this so that the recoil lug is pulling up against a good, solid, hard, mated surface. I also go out to the sides of the stock in the recoil lug recess and cut 2 "ears" back toward the ACTION SIDE of the recess. This, again, is just give the recoil lug area more room for epoxy to set and grab. I also tape off the front, sides, and bottom of the recoil lug with 10 mil plumbers tape. I put 2 wraps of the tape down the length of the barrel to rest in the barrel channel of the stock. In theory this provides a minimum of 20 mil clearance the length of the barrel. Test fit everything several times with your pillars, bottom metal, action and stock before setting anything. Run yourself through the whole process mentally each time so that all the tools you need are handy and your not scrambling around. [/QUOTE]
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