Splitting necks...... still

[Creedmoor shooter]

One thing I've done is I removed the sizing button on my Redding dies. You guys that use bushing dies do you remove the sizing button?

 

[Creedmoor shooter]

Before you get too far down the rabbit hole, I suggest just trying with a cordless drill and socket and torch first. This way you can quickly gauge how much it helps you without getting any of the machines. I actually anneal with a torch and drill myself and usually do about 50 cases at a time.
Below link is to a Youtube guy called Ammosmith. He is really good and explains things well. It's a good quick vid. Shows the colors to expect and everything.

Do you use the water quenching method? How do you dry the cases when your done? Oven?

 

[L.Sherm]

I just let mine air cool

 

[Alibiiv]

Before you get too far down the rabbit hole, I suggest just trying with a cordless drill and socket and torch first. This way you can quickly gauge how much it helps you without getting any of the machines. I actually anneal with a torch and drill myself and usually do about 50 cases at a time.
Below link is to a Youtube guy called Ammosmith. He is really good and explains things well. It's a good quick vid. Shows the colors to expect and everything.

If you are going to try the cordless drill and the socket process, especially for the first time, I strongly suggest that you purchase a product that monitors temperature while you are annealing; it is called Tempilaq. If you are going this route, perhaps you could do a batch of 20 cases, try them to see if the splitting problem goes away. It is important to know that brass "will" work harden upon the brass being moved as in through a sizing die. It doesn't take that much for the brass to work-harden. I'm also curious if you have changed case lube on either the inside or outside of your cases?

www.brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=Tempilaq&ksubmit=y

 

[Creedmoor shooter]

If you are going to try the cordless drill and the socket process, especially for the first time, I strongly suggest that you purchase a product that monitors temperature while you are annealing; it is called Tempilaq. If you are going this route, perhaps you could do a batch of 20 cases, try them to see if the splitting problem goes away. It is important to know that brass "will" work harden upon the brass being moved as in through a sizing die. It doesn't take that much for the brass to work-harden. I'm also curious if you have changed case lube on either the inside or outside of your cases?

www.brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=Tempilaq&ksubmit=y

I havent changed lube. I've used the same process for a year now.

 

[Canhunter35]

I never had much success using tempilaq myself, now I just heat them in a cordless drill and drop onto some cotton rags, leave them for a bit and they'll be cool and ready.

 

[Creedmoor shooter]

I'll try this on some of the brass that's on 4 firings and see if I get anymore splits. Maybe if this is a neck tension issue my flyers I've been getting will go away

 

[Canhunter35]

I'll try this on some of the brass that's on 4 firings and see if I get anymore splits. Maybe if this is a neck tension issue my flyers I've been getting will go away

It's worked for me at making shots more consistent. Because of annealing I had 6 firings and great accuracy on my 257 brass, without annealling nearly every neck split after 3 firings

 

[ronstone09]

So I had posted up a thread awhile ago about my necks splitting after only 3 or 4 firings. I changed my dies and am using a Redding type s full length sizing die with a .289 bushing and doing a .002 shoulder bump. I've been running Peterson brass lately and so far so good until today. I had one split on its 5th firing. I guess I'm at a loss as to why this keeps happening to me. It's happened on adg, Peterson, and norma. My fired necks measure .295 and I have .002 neck tension. I dont anneal my brass but I feel it should be lasting longer than 5 firings. Does anyone have any ideas? I do neck turn my brass but that's happened on non neck turned brass so I know that's not the problem.

you might try annealing your cases ! cases get stiff after firings and split depending on the brass ! i always buy top end brass such as lupua or nosler !

 

[Barrelnut]

Do you use the water quenching method? How do you dry the cases when your done? Oven?

I don't dunk them in water after annealing. I just drop them on a cotton towel to cool, much like Canhunter above. Make sure you use a 100% cotton towel. If it has polyester or anything like that the hot neck will melt it a bit and stick to the neck...
I do not even tumble or clean my brass anymore. I wipe them off, sometimes with a little alcohol. Clean the outside of the neck with 0000 steel wool. Then anneal them in the socket with a torch. let then cool then size them. I leave the carbon from the last firing in the neck. I get good bullet seating consistency and SD this way.

 

[coop2564]

Something else is going on I think. Annealing is a good idea...but I've loaded a boat load of Nosler and Hornady brass in 6.5 cm and never had a split neck have some on load 9 right now.

 

[aushunter1]

I'll try this on some of the brass that's on 4 firings and see if I get anymore splits. Maybe if this is a neck tension issue my flyers I've been getting will go away

I would also think about stopping neck turning something like 10 cases & fire them 4 or 5 times, its not normally an issue unless you are taking off more than you should??

 

[Deputy819]

You guys that use bushing dies do you remove the sizing button

I remove them from the dies. I have mandrels from 21st Century that I use to set neck tension instead of using the sizing button in the dies. Makes for very concentric/ironed out necks with little to no runout.

 

[Creedmoor shooter]

I would also think about stopping neck turning something like 10 cases & fire them 4 or 5 times, its not normally an issue unless you are taking off more than you should??

When I do it I literally just barely take any off. Just enough to uniform the case neck