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shooting a group help...
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<blockquote data-quote="4xforfun" data-source="post: 989213" data-attributes="member: 9172"><p>First things first. </p><p> </p><p>With a COLD FOWLED BORE....shoot a long string fairly quickly. Get it HOT. Now,did the shots string on you? Heat induced stress will move the shots in ONE direction. This could be in any direction. If you are getting heat induced stress, you will see it on target. Now, there is also heat induced velocity rise. As your tube heats it swells...which means that the bore will restrict ever so slightly. This will cause higher PSI and , thusly, velocity rise. If your shots string upward, it COULD be caused by either stress or swelling. EVERY tube will show a slight increase in velocity if they get hot enough. It can raise the speed up enough to change your tune. That is why we 600/1000 yard target shooters tune our loads to a HOT BBL...that is one of the reasons we shoot more sighters than we usually need...we need to get the tube HOT to be in our tuning window.</p><p> </p><p> </p><p>So, use a chrono if at all possible. This will tell you how much you gain in velosity as the tube warms up. If you find that you do not have any heat induced stress and your speed doesn't go crazy, I say let fly with your groups and take advantage of the conditions. Shoot a couple of groups with a cool bore (IE...fire a few warm up shots and then shoot groups waiting a couple minutes between shots) and shoot a couple with a hot bore. Compair them...see if the groups open, close, or stay the same.</p><p> </p><p>There are two different things that I look for in a hunting gun...and they have NOTHING to do with each other. One is how it groups...this has to be done with a warm or hot bbl. The other is first shot, cold bore shot placement. Will the gun ALWAYS put that first cold bore shot in the same place. To do this test it takes HOURS to shoot a few shots. And, I like to make this test when the temps are at HUNTING temps. The tube needs to cool COMPLEATLY!!! Here in ND I test the first shot repeatability just before season..when it is COLD out. But, like I said, groups and first shot placement have nothing to do with each other as far as testing. You may well have a rifle that HOLDS POI and the cold/ hot things are the same. My advice....</p><p> </p><p>NEVER SELL IT!! (If you do, give me first crack at it!!) <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p> </p><p>Good luck and have fun,</p><p>Tod</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="4xforfun, post: 989213, member: 9172"] First things first. With a COLD FOWLED BORE....shoot a long string fairly quickly. Get it HOT. Now,did the shots string on you? Heat induced stress will move the shots in ONE direction. This could be in any direction. If you are getting heat induced stress, you will see it on target. Now, there is also heat induced velocity rise. As your tube heats it swells...which means that the bore will restrict ever so slightly. This will cause higher PSI and , thusly, velocity rise. If your shots string upward, it COULD be caused by either stress or swelling. EVERY tube will show a slight increase in velocity if they get hot enough. It can raise the speed up enough to change your tune. That is why we 600/1000 yard target shooters tune our loads to a HOT BBL...that is one of the reasons we shoot more sighters than we usually need...we need to get the tube HOT to be in our tuning window. So, use a chrono if at all possible. This will tell you how much you gain in velosity as the tube warms up. If you find that you do not have any heat induced stress and your speed doesn't go crazy, I say let fly with your groups and take advantage of the conditions. Shoot a couple of groups with a cool bore (IE...fire a few warm up shots and then shoot groups waiting a couple minutes between shots) and shoot a couple with a hot bore. Compair them...see if the groups open, close, or stay the same. There are two different things that I look for in a hunting gun...and they have NOTHING to do with each other. One is how it groups...this has to be done with a warm or hot bbl. The other is first shot, cold bore shot placement. Will the gun ALWAYS put that first cold bore shot in the same place. To do this test it takes HOURS to shoot a few shots. And, I like to make this test when the temps are at HUNTING temps. The tube needs to cool COMPLEATLY!!! Here in ND I test the first shot repeatability just before season..when it is COLD out. But, like I said, groups and first shot placement have nothing to do with each other as far as testing. You may well have a rifle that HOLDS POI and the cold/ hot things are the same. My advice.... NEVER SELL IT!! (If you do, give me first crack at it!!) :D Good luck and have fun, Tod [/QUOTE]
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