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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Shallow action threads?
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 1125379" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>1.06-16 tpi is a standard off the shelf item (still not cheap). Find a bottoming tap, and run it thru the action. If the tap feels loose, place a strip of .001" brass shim stock on one thread flute, and re-cut. If it's still loose you have a serious issue. I've used .0025" a few times but the results can be iffey at best.</p><p></p><p>The next issue is not uncommon, but few understand it. The threads in the action were either single pointed (still have yet to see a Remington that wasn't done with a tap), or drilled and tapped. Just because you cut the threads via a lathe doesn't make them any good, contrary to popular belief. A headstock out of alignment will give you a tapered bore and a tapered thread (very common). Next issue is the two different machines cutting threads. Every machine has lead error, yet most will never see it unless the threads are very tight. As the thread turns the error starts to stack up. </p><p></p><p>Before doing anything, take a black felt marking pen and blacken the entire male thread. Now clean the female thread with brake cleaner. Thread the two together till they are very tight. Now remove them and look for bright metal on the male threads. That will show you where things are binding up. If it's all over, then you have bad threads (lead error, or just plain cut wrong). If it's the first two or three threads, then indeed you can run the tap thru the bore. I'd forget the idea of re-cutting the female threads on a lathe unless your a tool maker with a lot of practice. If it's not much of a bind, a tap might fix it. </p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 1125379, member: 25383"] 1.06-16 tpi is a standard off the shelf item (still not cheap). Find a bottoming tap, and run it thru the action. If the tap feels loose, place a strip of .001" brass shim stock on one thread flute, and re-cut. If it's still loose you have a serious issue. I've used .0025" a few times but the results can be iffey at best. The next issue is not uncommon, but few understand it. The threads in the action were either single pointed (still have yet to see a Remington that wasn't done with a tap), or drilled and tapped. Just because you cut the threads via a lathe doesn't make them any good, contrary to popular belief. A headstock out of alignment will give you a tapered bore and a tapered thread (very common). Next issue is the two different machines cutting threads. Every machine has lead error, yet most will never see it unless the threads are very tight. As the thread turns the error starts to stack up. Before doing anything, take a black felt marking pen and blacken the entire male thread. Now clean the female thread with brake cleaner. Thread the two together till they are very tight. Now remove them and look for bright metal on the male threads. That will show you where things are binding up. If it's all over, then you have bad threads (lead error, or just plain cut wrong). If it's the first two or three threads, then indeed you can run the tap thru the bore. I'd forget the idea of re-cutting the female threads on a lathe unless your a tool maker with a lot of practice. If it's not much of a bind, a tap might fix it. gary [/QUOTE]
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Shallow action threads?
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