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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Searching for .700 diameter 2 or 3 port muzzle brakes
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<blockquote data-quote="arch408" data-source="post: 1881213" data-attributes="member: 59036"><p>I make my own brakes, so on the thinner barrels, I make them with 9/16X32 thread so I have thicker walls. For your For your application with a barrel already threaded, if you can try to find a smith or machninest who can make a counter bored brake that fits over the barrel and butts up up against the muzzle. I make the brake body, bore it out .020" larger than the bullet, bore it out and thread it. then, I'll counter bore it so fits over the muzzle about 1/2", leaving at least 5/8" of threads. I taper the brake so it blends in with the barrel. Then I screw it onto the barrel, then I set it up on a mill to drill the ports. I only work on my own guns. I don't want the responsibility of working on other peoples guns. on the lathe I use now I have to remove the barrel. It's a lot easier if you have a lathe with a short gear head so you can leave the barrel on. The plus side is when I remove the barrel, I'll true the reciever face, and lap the bolt recoil lugs to the reciever. I've gotten amazingly better shooting rifles by doing that. </p><p>Good luck.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="arch408, post: 1881213, member: 59036"] I make my own brakes, so on the thinner barrels, I make them with 9/16X32 thread so I have thicker walls. For your For your application with a barrel already threaded, if you can try to find a smith or machninest who can make a counter bored brake that fits over the barrel and butts up up against the muzzle. I make the brake body, bore it out .020" larger than the bullet, bore it out and thread it. then, I'll counter bore it so fits over the muzzle about 1/2", leaving at least 5/8" of threads. I taper the brake so it blends in with the barrel. Then I screw it onto the barrel, then I set it up on a mill to drill the ports. I only work on my own guns. I don't want the responsibility of working on other peoples guns. on the lathe I use now I have to remove the barrel. It's a lot easier if you have a lathe with a short gear head so you can leave the barrel on. The plus side is when I remove the barrel, I'll true the reciever face, and lap the bolt recoil lugs to the reciever. I've gotten amazingly better shooting rifles by doing that. Good luck. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Searching for .700 diameter 2 or 3 port muzzle brakes
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