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scope leveling
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<blockquote data-quote="engineer40" data-source="post: 1177711" data-attributes="member: 90399"><p>When you say that you "leveled" the scope, does that also mean you installed a bubble level onto the scope? If not, you may be holding the scope/rifle canted a bit when firing without realizing it. </p><p></p><p>It doesn't make a huge difference if the scope is level to the rifle. For this reason I prefer the bubble levels that are attached to the scope tube, not the rifle or picatinny or rings. </p><p></p><p>When you "level" a scope you really want to consider 2 things; Will you be dialing your turrets or will you be holding over using the reticle? </p><p></p><p>It's amazing that even in high end scopes, many times the turrets and reticle are slightly off from each other. </p><p></p><p>If you're using the reticle to hold over, you'll want to make sure that reticle is perfectly lined up with your plum line. And verify with testing this way. </p><p></p><p>If you are dialing turrets (which it sounds like you are), you'll want to perform your test shooting just like you described. Just remember that your reticle may be just a tad off of your plum line, but if your shooting verifies that's where your scope turrets track at, then that's where you should leave your scope mounted at. </p><p></p><p>IMO, the worst method of leveling a scope is the one I often see posted on YT, etc. Where you put 1 level on the top of the scope and another on the rifle somewhere that is flat on the receiver. I have never had this work out to a true level scope. And like I mentioned at the beginning, it doesn't really matter if your scope is level with your rifle. What really matters is if your scope is level with 1) Your reticle or 2) Your turrets when you dial them. And the best way to do that is to attach a bubble level to your scope tube to be able to verify you are holding the "shooting system" the same for every shot while testing. </p><p></p><p>Hope that makes sense. I'm sure others will have opinions and they may also be correct. It's just what I've noticed works best for me.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="engineer40, post: 1177711, member: 90399"] When you say that you "leveled" the scope, does that also mean you installed a bubble level onto the scope? If not, you may be holding the scope/rifle canted a bit when firing without realizing it. It doesn't make a huge difference if the scope is level to the rifle. For this reason I prefer the bubble levels that are attached to the scope tube, not the rifle or picatinny or rings. When you "level" a scope you really want to consider 2 things; Will you be dialing your turrets or will you be holding over using the reticle? It's amazing that even in high end scopes, many times the turrets and reticle are slightly off from each other. If you're using the reticle to hold over, you'll want to make sure that reticle is perfectly lined up with your plum line. And verify with testing this way. If you are dialing turrets (which it sounds like you are), you'll want to perform your test shooting just like you described. Just remember that your reticle may be just a tad off of your plum line, but if your shooting verifies that's where your scope turrets track at, then that's where you should leave your scope mounted at. IMO, the worst method of leveling a scope is the one I often see posted on YT, etc. Where you put 1 level on the top of the scope and another on the rifle somewhere that is flat on the receiver. I have never had this work out to a true level scope. And like I mentioned at the beginning, it doesn't really matter if your scope is level with your rifle. What really matters is if your scope is level with 1) Your reticle or 2) Your turrets when you dial them. And the best way to do that is to attach a bubble level to your scope tube to be able to verify you are holding the "shooting system" the same for every shot while testing. Hope that makes sense. I'm sure others will have opinions and they may also be correct. It's just what I've noticed works best for me. [/QUOTE]
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