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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Savage switch barrel
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<blockquote data-quote="Buck Fever" data-source="post: 2766208" data-attributes="member: 113501"><p>Look up a jack screw, that's exactly what it does, in miniature.</p><p></p><p>The middle part is a clamp, the front is a barrel nut with a toroidal section and the recoil lug also has a toroidal section. With the clamp loose (or slightly stretched as I do it), the barrel nut can be tightened with a tiny wrench or by hand to lock the headspace in, then when the capscrew in the clamp is tightened it acts on the two toroidal sections, pushing them apart, tensioning the barrel threads. The clamp does not contact the barrel at all.</p><p></p><p>In a Video Ted made, he showed that the clamping that can be done by hand with an Allen key is equivalent to more than 150 ft-lbs barrel torque on a shouldered barrel.</p><p></p><p>A typical capscrew is a huge "nut" with a ring of smaller bolts around it, parallel to the main thread. When you have a large thread, the torque to properly tighten it is so high that tightening with a wrench becomes impractical so a jackscrew is used where the smaller bolts press down on a washer under the nut to tension the threads. At full scale this creates equivalent torques that are probably in the 10s of thousands of ft-lbs and more.</p><p></p><p>Instead of relying on 30-40 ft-lbs of torque keeping your barrel tight or hoping that your headspace doesn't change, Barloc secures a barrel just as well as most fully tightened shouldered barrels, you just have to have a GO gauge with you to swap and it will take a few minutes more than doing it with a strap wrench (but I don't know why you would be in such a hurry).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Buck Fever, post: 2766208, member: 113501"] Look up a jack screw, that's exactly what it does, in miniature. The middle part is a clamp, the front is a barrel nut with a toroidal section and the recoil lug also has a toroidal section. With the clamp loose (or slightly stretched as I do it), the barrel nut can be tightened with a tiny wrench or by hand to lock the headspace in, then when the capscrew in the clamp is tightened it acts on the two toroidal sections, pushing them apart, tensioning the barrel threads. The clamp does not contact the barrel at all. In a Video Ted made, he showed that the clamping that can be done by hand with an Allen key is equivalent to more than 150 ft-lbs barrel torque on a shouldered barrel. A typical capscrew is a huge "nut" with a ring of smaller bolts around it, parallel to the main thread. When you have a large thread, the torque to properly tighten it is so high that tightening with a wrench becomes impractical so a jackscrew is used where the smaller bolts press down on a washer under the nut to tension the threads. At full scale this creates equivalent torques that are probably in the 10s of thousands of ft-lbs and more. Instead of relying on 30-40 ft-lbs of torque keeping your barrel tight or hoping that your headspace doesn't change, Barloc secures a barrel just as well as most fully tightened shouldered barrels, you just have to have a GO gauge with you to swap and it will take a few minutes more than doing it with a strap wrench (but I don't know why you would be in such a hurry). [/QUOTE]
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