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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Savage switch barrel
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<blockquote data-quote="Buck Fever" data-source="post: 2764192" data-attributes="member: 113501"><p>I just bought an American Rifle Company Barloc with a Nucleus style recoil lug. I cut my 1 piece scope rail to interface with the nub on the recoil lug and bedded the rail to the action and the lug to the rail.</p><p></p><p>You don't have to do the bedding but it puts my recoil lug in exactly the same spot and was easier than pinning since I was doing chassis bedding any way.</p><p></p><p>I still have to headspace my barrels but I only need an Allen key to do the job because the Barloc works as a jack-screw that's equivalent to putting 150+ ft-lbs of torque on the barrel nut.</p><p></p><p>Another benefit is that the "toroidal geometry" of the Barloc means the front of your action doesn't have to be faced exactly perpendicular to your action threads. That with the Savage floating bolt head has about the same effect as truing an action.</p><p></p><p>One last thing, when I install a barrel, I take the cap screw out of the Barloc clamp and put it in backwards so I can put a dime or some other shim in the gap to spread the clamp. That lets me screw in the barrel nut portion of the Barlock a bit more (with zero torque) so nothing moves and the clamp can't bottom out when tightening. It doesn't take much but doing that ensures the Barloc won't loosen.</p><p></p><p>It won't let you swap barrels without checking headspace but it will let you do it quickly with one tiny tool, no action wrench or barrel vise required.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Buck Fever, post: 2764192, member: 113501"] I just bought an American Rifle Company Barloc with a Nucleus style recoil lug. I cut my 1 piece scope rail to interface with the nub on the recoil lug and bedded the rail to the action and the lug to the rail. You don't have to do the bedding but it puts my recoil lug in exactly the same spot and was easier than pinning since I was doing chassis bedding any way. I still have to headspace my barrels but I only need an Allen key to do the job because the Barloc works as a jack-screw that's equivalent to putting 150+ ft-lbs of torque on the barrel nut. Another benefit is that the "toroidal geometry" of the Barloc means the front of your action doesn't have to be faced exactly perpendicular to your action threads. That with the Savage floating bolt head has about the same effect as truing an action. One last thing, when I install a barrel, I take the cap screw out of the Barloc clamp and put it in backwards so I can put a dime or some other shim in the gap to spread the clamp. That lets me screw in the barrel nut portion of the Barlock a bit more (with zero torque) so nothing moves and the clamp can't bottom out when tightening. It doesn't take much but doing that ensures the Barloc won't loosen. It won't let you swap barrels without checking headspace but it will let you do it quickly with one tiny tool, no action wrench or barrel vise required. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Savage switch barrel
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