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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Rust removal????
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<blockquote data-quote="johnlittletree" data-source="post: 1507240" data-attributes="member: 105653"><p>[MEDIA=youtube]JrAJr8o3fDU[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>This is very similar to how I deal with mild rust, conversion or reblue. I do Belgium blueing but use steam cabinet and hot air gun. I use steel wool and Plinkingtons. The process is the same it is just a matter of how much of the finish you are completely redoing or if you just doing maintenance on a antique classic. I used to make my own but it got hard to consistently get iron nail or shoes and other high quality and very simple iron to dissolve in the acid. Once most of the iron things like nails started to have coating applied to them or they where more like still and not iron the unknown ingredients can really change how it works. You want a consistent product that always works like clock work. When I made my own it was hit and miss one batch would be great the next not so great or you had more rework. I almost bought caustic salt system in the late 1990 but decided against it. You could buy reagent grade powdered iron so you know it would be pure but that is a hassle! When you see a deep purplish blue on a SXS that is Belgium Blueing because those rifles and shotguns are soldered together they can not take the heat of caustic hot bluing. If you have to remove the finish to start new never polish the barrel more than 400 grit some stop at 350 grit. If you polish it too much the rust does not stick to the metal well. So instead you polish card and polish the converted rust to get it where you want it.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="johnlittletree, post: 1507240, member: 105653"] [MEDIA=youtube]JrAJr8o3fDU[/MEDIA] This is very similar to how I deal with mild rust, conversion or reblue. I do Belgium blueing but use steam cabinet and hot air gun. I use steel wool and Plinkingtons. The process is the same it is just a matter of how much of the finish you are completely redoing or if you just doing maintenance on a antique classic. I used to make my own but it got hard to consistently get iron nail or shoes and other high quality and very simple iron to dissolve in the acid. Once most of the iron things like nails started to have coating applied to them or they where more like still and not iron the unknown ingredients can really change how it works. You want a consistent product that always works like clock work. When I made my own it was hit and miss one batch would be great the next not so great or you had more rework. I almost bought caustic salt system in the late 1990 but decided against it. You could buy reagent grade powdered iron so you know it would be pure but that is a hassle! When you see a deep purplish blue on a SXS that is Belgium Blueing because those rifles and shotguns are soldered together they can not take the heat of caustic hot bluing. If you have to remove the finish to start new never polish the barrel more than 400 grit some stop at 350 grit. If you polish it too much the rust does not stick to the metal well. So instead you polish card and polish the converted rust to get it where you want it. [/QUOTE]
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Rust removal????
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