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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Removing Barrel from Action
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<blockquote data-quote="NesikaChad" data-source="post: 237672" data-attributes="member: 7449"><p>First off, let me pass this along so you don't end up disappointed.</p><p></p><p>If you want your barrel fluted, make sure you clearly mark the 12 O clock position of the barrel before you remove it from the action. The shop performing the work has no idea where the clock position is and this will almost certainly result in the flutes not timing up properly when reinstalled on the action.</p><p></p><p>As far as removal. You need some tools or a local gunsmith capable of doing this kind of work.</p><p></p><p>A barrel vise is a must. These are typically made of steel and use two "C" shaped blocks that clamp together by screws or large bolts.</p><p></p><p>Then you'll need inserts machined to your barrel cylinder's diameter. Typical sizes are 1.25, 1.200, and 1.150".</p><p></p><p>From there, get some rosin for a ball glove.</p><p></p><p>Take a strip of paper, dust it with rosin, and then wrap the barrel tightly where the jaws are going to contact the barrel. Now, take a can of Kroil and soak the threads of the barrel through the front scope mount hole. Hose everything you can so that it'll creep into the threads between the barrel and action.</p><p></p><p>Now get a heat gun. Turn it on high and begin heating the receiver until the Kroil begins to smoke to high heaven (never had it catch on fire, so don't worry). When white smoke is pouring off the action, insert an action wrench (a big "key" machined to emulate the raceways of the action, the back end will be square and will allow a 1.125/1.25 12 point socket and breaker bar)</p><p></p><p>It'll more than likely take some effort and it'll probably "pop" when it finally lets go. From there it's just a matter of unscrewing it from the action. The rosin will stick to the barrel pretty good. Any cleaner should remove it.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Good luck.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="NesikaChad, post: 237672, member: 7449"] First off, let me pass this along so you don't end up disappointed. If you want your barrel fluted, make sure you clearly mark the 12 O clock position of the barrel before you remove it from the action. The shop performing the work has no idea where the clock position is and this will almost certainly result in the flutes not timing up properly when reinstalled on the action. As far as removal. You need some tools or a local gunsmith capable of doing this kind of work. A barrel vise is a must. These are typically made of steel and use two "C" shaped blocks that clamp together by screws or large bolts. Then you'll need inserts machined to your barrel cylinder's diameter. Typical sizes are 1.25, 1.200, and 1.150". From there, get some rosin for a ball glove. Take a strip of paper, dust it with rosin, and then wrap the barrel tightly where the jaws are going to contact the barrel. Now, take a can of Kroil and soak the threads of the barrel through the front scope mount hole. Hose everything you can so that it'll creep into the threads between the barrel and action. Now get a heat gun. Turn it on high and begin heating the receiver until the Kroil begins to smoke to high heaven (never had it catch on fire, so don't worry). When white smoke is pouring off the action, insert an action wrench (a big "key" machined to emulate the raceways of the action, the back end will be square and will allow a 1.125/1.25 12 point socket and breaker bar) It'll more than likely take some effort and it'll probably "pop" when it finally lets go. From there it's just a matter of unscrewing it from the action. The rosin will stick to the barrel pretty good. Any cleaner should remove it. Good luck. [/QUOTE]
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Removing Barrel from Action
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