Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Removing a Tikka Barrel
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="azsugarbear" data-source="post: 2792615" data-attributes="member: 4809"><p>I have removed several T3 barrels. Some were easy and some were difficult. It was a learning process for me. The weak link always seems to be the barrel vise. I had the Viper, but the vise contour was straight while the Tikka barrel had a slight contour. This resulted in very little actual contact or 'purchase' on the barrel so it would spin. At the time, there were no aluminum Tikka contoured sleeves, so I made my own using epoxy. This substantially increased my purchase on the barrel (also used drywall tape). Some barrels (mostly magnums) were installed with an incredible amount of pressure at the shoulder/action face. I initially used an internal action wrench, but found there was a greater chance of actually twisting the action itself. I eventually switched over to an external, flat sided action wrench with a breaker bar and a large mallet to jar them loose. If the don't move by the third hit, I resort to heating up the action surrounding the tennons and try again. That always seems to get it done.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="azsugarbear, post: 2792615, member: 4809"] I have removed several T3 barrels. Some were easy and some were difficult. It was a learning process for me. The weak link always seems to be the barrel vise. I had the Viper, but the vise contour was straight while the Tikka barrel had a slight contour. This resulted in very little actual contact or 'purchase' on the barrel so it would spin. At the time, there were no aluminum Tikka contoured sleeves, so I made my own using epoxy. This substantially increased my purchase on the barrel (also used drywall tape). Some barrels (mostly magnums) were installed with an incredible amount of pressure at the shoulder/action face. I initially used an internal action wrench, but found there was a greater chance of actually twisting the action itself. I eventually switched over to an external, flat sided action wrench with a breaker bar and a large mallet to jar them loose. If the don't move by the third hit, I resort to heating up the action surrounding the tennons and try again. That always seems to get it done. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Removing a Tikka Barrel
Top