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The Basics, Starting Out
Reloading equipment
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<blockquote data-quote="Coyoter" data-source="post: 51670" data-attributes="member: 236"><p>I guess I'll add that with proper setup, you can get .001" bullet runout (or less) with the Redding Comp. dies, and that's what the whole hand die and arbor press thing boils down to. You'll have to sit and tweak the dies and/or shell holder to find the sweet spot, but it can be done and far more easily than with a set of factory dies. The biggest factor is setting up your neck die to .000" runout to the best of your ability. Any runout in the neck will be magnified by the bullet. This is where the RCBS Casemaster is so invaluable. You set the neck die, measure a case for neck runout, size it, meaure it again and adjust. Idealy, the brass is "perfect" before you size it, but sometimes (especially with virgin brass) its not. Get another piece of brass and repeat untill you have no runout. If you're using the Redding Comps, you should be able to achieve it. If your gun is taking .0005" neck runout and turning it into .002" brass, ditch the barrel (or at least a few inches of it!).</p><p> A quick note about the case trimmers, and I've never used the Wilson. What I like about the Forster with the power adaptor is that you hold the power on and only have to concentrate on how much pressure you apply to the trimmer. For me, it's a challenge to turn a crank and maintain consistant pressure on the cutter. Mostly, I tend to "gorilla" things to make them go faster and that's not what's best in most handloading situations. With the neck turning attachment, there's a ramped insert for your trimmer that will gradually walk the turner down the case neck. Again, I find it easier to be consistant if one hand simply holds the power on, while the other feeds the turner down the neck. </p><p> Coyoter</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Coyoter, post: 51670, member: 236"] I guess I'll add that with proper setup, you can get .001" bullet runout (or less) with the Redding Comp. dies, and that's what the whole hand die and arbor press thing boils down to. You'll have to sit and tweak the dies and/or shell holder to find the sweet spot, but it can be done and far more easily than with a set of factory dies. The biggest factor is setting up your neck die to .000" runout to the best of your ability. Any runout in the neck will be magnified by the bullet. This is where the RCBS Casemaster is so invaluable. You set the neck die, measure a case for neck runout, size it, meaure it again and adjust. Idealy, the brass is "perfect" before you size it, but sometimes (especially with virgin brass) its not. Get another piece of brass and repeat untill you have no runout. If you're using the Redding Comps, you should be able to achieve it. If your gun is taking .0005" neck runout and turning it into .002" brass, ditch the barrel (or at least a few inches of it!). A quick note about the case trimmers, and I've never used the Wilson. What I like about the Forster with the power adaptor is that you hold the power on and only have to concentrate on how much pressure you apply to the trimmer. For me, it's a challenge to turn a crank and maintain consistant pressure on the cutter. Mostly, I tend to "gorilla" things to make them go faster and that's not what's best in most handloading situations. With the neck turning attachment, there's a ramped insert for your trimmer that will gradually walk the turner down the case neck. Again, I find it easier to be consistant if one hand simply holds the power on, while the other feeds the turner down the neck. Coyoter [/QUOTE]
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