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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Reloading Equipment
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<blockquote data-quote="McDoone" data-source="post: 1535232" data-attributes="member: 21981"><p>I loaded for 5 belted magnum rifles, including a .378, no problem. Rebarreled my .300 Weatherby, then lots of problems. Collet base sizer solved it. Chances are pretty good you won't need one. But it happens. </p><p>I use a powder measure to drop a near full charge and an electric trickler to complete on a balance beam scale set at eye level with a big page sized magnifying lens set in front. I can discriminate down to 1 kernel of powder. It's reasonably quick and extremely accurate if you're loading for competition. Or for a long range hunting rifle. </p><p></p><p>I've been known to drop powder straight from the measure for my .270 semi auto. It's my short range hunter. If the powder works well through the measure. </p><p></p><p>You can use an appropriate pistol case, flared nicely in combination with a good vernier calliper as a guage to set your shoulder bump. If you look around on the Internet you should be able to see how to do it. That's what I did. Actually I think I saw it on accurate shooter. </p><p>While I'm on the topic, measuring is a skill. You need to be completely consistent in how you do it. If you use this procedure I'm describing, you need to be able to read the same result down to .001 every single time. Excessive headspace is not something you want to create. The consequences could be terminal. </p><p>Your magnum actually headspaces on the belt, so it's not an issue with it, but you want to headspace on the shoulder for best results. And you can do that. The Redding dies with the graduated shellholders mentioned in an earlier post are the best. Get the bump dies with the interchangeable neck sizing bushings for your long range gun. </p><p>Lots of good advice in all the previous posts, too. There's more than one way to get where you're going.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="McDoone, post: 1535232, member: 21981"] I loaded for 5 belted magnum rifles, including a .378, no problem. Rebarreled my .300 Weatherby, then lots of problems. Collet base sizer solved it. Chances are pretty good you won’t need one. But it happens. I use a powder measure to drop a near full charge and an electric trickler to complete on a balance beam scale set at eye level with a big page sized magnifying lens set in front. I can discriminate down to 1 kernel of powder. It’s reasonably quick and extremely accurate if you’re loading for competition. Or for a long range hunting rifle. I’ve been known to drop powder straight from the measure for my .270 semi auto. It’s my short range hunter. If the powder works well through the measure. You can use an appropriate pistol case, flared nicely in combination with a good vernier calliper as a guage to set your shoulder bump. If you look around on the Internet you should be able to see how to do it. That’s what I did. Actually I think I saw it on accurate shooter. While I’m on the topic, measuring is a skill. You need to be completely consistent in how you do it. If you use this procedure I’m describing, you need to be able to read the same result down to .001 every single time. Excessive headspace is not something you want to create. The consequences could be terminal. Your magnum actually headspaces on the belt, so it’s not an issue with it, but you want to headspace on the shoulder for best results. And you can do that. The Redding dies with the graduated shellholders mentioned in an earlier post are the best. Get the bump dies with the interchangeable neck sizing bushings for your long range gun. Lots of good advice in all the previous posts, too. There’s more than one way to get where you’re going. [/QUOTE]
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