Reloading Equipment

Blackdirt Cowboy

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I am just getting into reloading and was given a rock chucker supreme for Christmas this year. Now I need to buy all the other equipment I need to start reloading. Other than the shell plates, the dies, and the consumables, what will I need to get started? I'll be using both new and once fired brass until I get some stock piled. What system should I look at for the powder charge? I don't want to spend a ton of money, and two of the calibers I'll reload for are for hunting only. The other caliber I'll load will be a combination long range target and hunting rifle.

Also, how do you go about selecting the right dies for your intended application?
 
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A balance beam scale is probably your cheapest route to get started. Your gonna get alot of opinions on dies. Your gonna need a case trimmer to trim the length on your brass when there to long. Setting up whichever die you buy properly is one of the most important steps so I would get case guage for whatever caliber your gonna be reloading for.
 
Whatever you decide on, get yourself one of these... It's worth the expense.

https://www.mightyarmory.com/products/copy-of-the-magnum-100-universal-decapping-die-for-all-presses

As for scales, balance beams are good to have around because they function without electricity. However, they're not quite as accurate as a digital scale when it comes down to serious precision loading down to 1/10 of a grain. If you go with a digital setup, and stick to extruded rifle powders, then I suggest the Chargemaster 1500. Pricey, but worth the investment. If you want something that's half manual and half digital, then getting a Hornady Quick-Trickle and a good digital scale like a Gempro setup where you hand trickle each charge, that's also a very precise way to go.

Dies, I prefer Redding over RCBS, but have lots of each, and they all work good. Also, a way to make precision ammo, is to buy a shell holder for each individual set of dies, and do not mix them around. This way your die set is adjusted perfectly to that shell plate, in your press. When it comes to loading precision ammo, consistency is key in every aspect.

Do yourself a favor and get some Imperial Sizing Wax, and DO NOT use Hornady One-Shot spray! That stuff will get brass stuck faster than anything. At the minimum use 98% alcohol and 12:1 lanolin mixture that you mix yourself.

Get a good set of calipers. I don't recommend skimping on money in this department... You'll find you use caliper for a lot more than just reloading. I use the Starrett 799A-6.
 
skip the case gauge..it is typically based on a spec, not your chamber.
learn to size for your chambers, not a spec.
wilson case trimmer, a scale is fine for low volume work like hunting casual match/target shooting. quality 0-1 mic, decent 0-6 digital caliper, a hand priming tool, tho a press mounted tool works fine.
sinclair.hornady OAL /case shoulder length tool buy both or a combo kit if they have one, one for seating bullets, one for sizing cases.
 
skip the case gauge..it is typically based on a spec, not your chamber.
learn to size for your chambers, not a spec.

wilson case trimmer, a scale is fine for low volume work like hunting casual match/target shooting. quality 0-1 mic, decent 0-6 digital caliper, a hand priming tool, tho a press mounted tool works fine.
sinclair.hornady OAL /case shoulder length tool buy both or a combo kit if they have one, one for seating bullets, one for sizing cases.
This is true for single-shots and bolt-actions. But for AR's and semi-autos I recommend getting a high-quality case gauge to ensure you're in spec. I also recommend small-base dies for AR's and AK's, especially if you're using range pickup brass, you don't know what kind of chamber that stuff has been in. I used to process brass and do Q&A for loaded ammo at a machinegun range, and we would have feeding and cycling issues even with NATO spec chambers if they would not drop in the case gauges without resistance. So, if loading for any semi-auto, I highly recommend getting case gauges and small-base dies.
 
- good reloading manual: I am partial to Nosler of Barnes
- quality calipers and micrometer
- Redding dies
- Chargemaster 1500 scale - check internet how to make to dispense faster via reprogram and soda straw - way worthwhile
- quality trimmer
- the realization that there is probably much more to come in this life long hobby
- good luck and enjoy
 
Never had an issue with Hornady One Shot. The Lyman stuff is another story. The Lee resizing lube has been very good.
Every time we tried it at work in the commercial auto-drive 1050's, it would almost immediately stick a case in the sizing die and rip the rim out of the shellplate, and I would have to shutdown the machines, pull the die, and drill and pull a stuck case. I'll never use it personally after dealing with all that first-hand. Most folks don't realize the headache that adds when trying to process 15,000+ pieces of brass a day by yourself.

At home (single-stage) I've used Redding Imperial Sizing Wax for many many years, and have zero complaints.
 
Thanks for the info so far. I'll be loading both .308 and 6.8 SPC in AR rifles. I'll be loading for a 7mm Weatherby Magnum as well. I'd like to load the 7mm for more long range precision work. Anything special I need to do for that? I keep reading about the belted brass and headspacing issues. Honestly, I've been researching this for about a week, and my head is spinning. There's no one that I know near me that reloads, so that's why I'm here. Treat me like a newb and tell me what I need to do.
 
Thanks for the info so far. I'll be loading both .308 and 6.8 SPC in AR rifles. I'll be loading for a 7mm Weatherby Magnum as well. I'd like to load the 7mm for more long range precision work. Anything special I need to do for that? I keep reading about the belted brass and headspacing issues. Honestly, I've been researching this for about a week, and my head is spinning. There's no one that I know near me that reloads, so that's why I'm here. Treat me like a newb and tell me what I need to do.
Take a deep breath... I had to teach myself everything I know, as well. Nobody in my family and none of my friends reload. I'm the lonewolf/blacksheep of the family. I've made my share of newbie mistakes. If I ever come-off as being abrupt it's not on purpose, it's to help someone from making the mistakes I made when I first started out...Which were plenty.

Don't worry about all that belted crap. Those people either don't know what they're talking about, or are just bias towards belted cases because they didn't know how to properly setup their dies. For the Weatherby (or any/all bolt-action rifle cartridges), I recommend neck-sizing your brass. Then when you get bolt resistance when closing the bolt, FL resize them once. Then go back to neck-sizing until you get resistance again. Somewhere in that mix, your brass should be worn-out and need replacing with new fresh brass. Redding sells 3-die "Deluxe" sets that include the FL sizing, neck sizing, and seating dies. You will still need to get a #6 shell holder for it.

For the AR's, I recommend the RCBS AR-series "SB" (small-base) full-length sizing dies. I use them for 5.56, .300 BLK, and 6.5 Grendel (.264 LBC). For the AR cartridges, I recommend a good set of case gauges, like the LE Wilson gauges.
 
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I learned everything here and reloading manuals/internet reading. I recommend starting out by following exactly what they tell you to do in the reloading manuals, which is going to be full length resizing, priming and charging... Many on this forum have taken reloading to the extreme and spend a lot of time debating minutiae, that while important can lead a newcomer down rabbit holes that you really don't need to go down until you and your equipment are capable of getting anything out of it.
 
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