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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Redding S type bushing die runout and solution
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<blockquote data-quote="Tesoro" data-source="post: 1301925" data-attributes="member: 44340"><p>I have the same coax/redding setup for my 20 practical.</p><p></p><p>One thing you didnt mention is that the knurled spacer has uneven sides...did you notice this when you took it off the decap rod? one side is flatter and thats the side that goes against the bushing. maybe you had the partially knurled side down and when you put in two bushings that fixed the prob.?? </p><p></p><p>I bet putting on the spacer upside down was your prob.</p><p></p><p>You mentioned squaring up the die??? huh? You should use forester alum rings and let em float! </p><p></p><p>The numbers should be down on the redding bushings so the top of bushing and bottom of the knurled spacer have a flat to flat mating surface. the bottom of the bushing moves up in the sizing process so no inteference if a stamped number has an extrusion. </p><p></p><p>Also with me at least...with new lc brass I use has excessive neck runout and the bushing die or a reg f/l die wont fix it (prob because of springback?). Once I fireform the cases then the case is aligned neck to body and all good after that. I just loaded up some 4x fired cases last night. neck od is .233 when fired and then i squeeze down to .255 which is a .022 jump.my loaded rounds pretty much all come out with a .0015 max runout measured at the bullet ogive. Most are under or at a thou.I size my necks close to the shoulder. I havent experimented but can see that backing off some would probably help reduce runout</p><p></p><p>Using an expander ball can cause neck runout for obvious reasons. I never use one and dont see the need. I fix dented neck mouths with an arbor die.</p><p></p><p>Also heres a couple of other tips I learned about the co-ax and consistent runout/head spacing: </p><p></p><p>Make sure that spring loaded ball bearing in the die ring channel is adjusted just enough to give just a slight bit of pressure on the die ring - my hex screw is half backed out from flush. If you push up on the ball bearing it should have little down pressure or can reduce the floating self alignment action.</p><p></p><p>Make sure you inspect/clean inside shoulder wall of your die where lube can build up and throw the neck sizing out of wack as there is a little side play in the bushing</p><p></p><p>Make sure there is no junk - powder grains from spills etc - on the normally hidden part of the floor plate under the retractable jaws. And also check/compare the spring pressure on each jaw. Its a good idea to pop off the plate every now and then and disassemble/clean and then make sure both springs are seated correctly on reassembly. I have one side of my jaws that tend to not want to align the spring properly on assembly and can put 2x pressure on opening/closing on that side. When reinstalling the complete jaw plate it can be oriented so the springs can be placed on the expander cone side or the opposite side. I have found that it works much better to have the springs on the expander cone side.</p><p></p><p>Some think the jaws actually hold and index the case on the extractor groove. nope. The case head sits and indexes off the base plate below the jaws thus the need to make sure its clean.</p><p></p><p>Hope any of this helps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tesoro, post: 1301925, member: 44340"] I have the same coax/redding setup for my 20 practical. One thing you didnt mention is that the knurled spacer has uneven sides...did you notice this when you took it off the decap rod? one side is flatter and thats the side that goes against the bushing. maybe you had the partially knurled side down and when you put in two bushings that fixed the prob.?? I bet putting on the spacer upside down was your prob. You mentioned squaring up the die??? huh? You should use forester alum rings and let em float! The numbers should be down on the redding bushings so the top of bushing and bottom of the knurled spacer have a flat to flat mating surface. the bottom of the bushing moves up in the sizing process so no inteference if a stamped number has an extrusion. Also with me at least...with new lc brass I use has excessive neck runout and the bushing die or a reg f/l die wont fix it (prob because of springback?). Once I fireform the cases then the case is aligned neck to body and all good after that. I just loaded up some 4x fired cases last night. neck od is .233 when fired and then i squeeze down to .255 which is a .022 jump.my loaded rounds pretty much all come out with a .0015 max runout measured at the bullet ogive. Most are under or at a thou.I size my necks close to the shoulder. I havent experimented but can see that backing off some would probably help reduce runout Using an expander ball can cause neck runout for obvious reasons. I never use one and dont see the need. I fix dented neck mouths with an arbor die. Also heres a couple of other tips I learned about the co-ax and consistent runout/head spacing: Make sure that spring loaded ball bearing in the die ring channel is adjusted just enough to give just a slight bit of pressure on the die ring - my hex screw is half backed out from flush. If you push up on the ball bearing it should have little down pressure or can reduce the floating self alignment action. Make sure you inspect/clean inside shoulder wall of your die where lube can build up and throw the neck sizing out of wack as there is a little side play in the bushing Make sure there is no junk - powder grains from spills etc - on the normally hidden part of the floor plate under the retractable jaws. And also check/compare the spring pressure on each jaw. Its a good idea to pop off the plate every now and then and disassemble/clean and then make sure both springs are seated correctly on reassembly. I have one side of my jaws that tend to not want to align the spring properly on assembly and can put 2x pressure on opening/closing on that side. When reinstalling the complete jaw plate it can be oriented so the springs can be placed on the expander cone side or the opposite side. I have found that it works much better to have the springs on the expander cone side. Some think the jaws actually hold and index the case on the extractor groove. nope. The case head sits and indexes off the base plate below the jaws thus the need to make sure its clean. Hope any of this helps. [/QUOTE]
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Redding S type bushing die runout and solution
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