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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Redding bushing dies
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<blockquote data-quote="Mike Matteson" data-source="post: 2569007" data-attributes="member: 101791"><p>I've just started to use Redding bushing FL dies. I've been adding to my collection as I go. Changing out of RCBS Dies of either FL or Neck dies. Things I do. I cut all my new case to one length out of the box. I don't do anything else. Then I set up and cut the neck to thickness all the same. With my 6mm/280AI I am using Peterson 280AI brass New. I have found a variances in COAL in the case of about .006 between long and short. I cut to the shortest dimension. Trimmed for thickness all the same, which was .026" over the .284". Reduced the neck 4 times to size to .0241" I.D. to get 002" neck tension. </p><p>Now if the brass is fired, I size and use a mandrel to push the un-even thickness to the outside, then cut neck wall thickness. That way you are done with having to use a mandrel again and again. By using the bushing, I am able to achieve the tension I am after so far. I may change that after awhile. </p><p>What I fail to see is why there seem to be, so much reissuances to cutting the necks to thickness. I feel like that's a bad word. Each time you push the irregular thickness to the outside of the neck. You haven't really taken care of the problem. You just push it to the outside. Yes the bullet is straighter, but when the round is fired you still kick the bullet to one side or the other in the chamber. Cocking the bullet one way or another. Once you have cut that neck thickness the case it done. It's getting the correct bushing to set the ID of the neck (so far that has worked for me). Just trimming to length as needed and size. I not leaving out all the other steps need, because I didn't state them. Just dealing with the neck and even thickness. </p><p>Please tell where I am wrong. Because you are working your brass again and again to correct problems that only requires one step at the start, and not have to use a mandrel to set the ID, and straight in the neck for setting the bullet. I have a Wilson blank seating die, that I have cut to seat my bullets with. </p><p>Again tell me where that wrong. I am still learning at 74.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mike Matteson, post: 2569007, member: 101791"] I've just started to use Redding bushing FL dies. I've been adding to my collection as I go. Changing out of RCBS Dies of either FL or Neck dies. Things I do. I cut all my new case to one length out of the box. I don't do anything else. Then I set up and cut the neck to thickness all the same. With my 6mm/280AI I am using Peterson 280AI brass New. I have found a variances in COAL in the case of about .006 between long and short. I cut to the shortest dimension. Trimmed for thickness all the same, which was .026" over the .284". Reduced the neck 4 times to size to .0241" I.D. to get 002" neck tension. Now if the brass is fired, I size and use a mandrel to push the un-even thickness to the outside, then cut neck wall thickness. That way you are done with having to use a mandrel again and again. By using the bushing, I am able to achieve the tension I am after so far. I may change that after awhile. What I fail to see is why there seem to be, so much reissuances to cutting the necks to thickness. I feel like that's a bad word. Each time you push the irregular thickness to the outside of the neck. You haven't really taken care of the problem. You just push it to the outside. Yes the bullet is straighter, but when the round is fired you still kick the bullet to one side or the other in the chamber. Cocking the bullet one way or another. Once you have cut that neck thickness the case it done. It's getting the correct bushing to set the ID of the neck (so far that has worked for me). Just trimming to length as needed and size. I not leaving out all the other steps need, because I didn't state them. Just dealing with the neck and even thickness. Please tell where I am wrong. Because you are working your brass again and again to correct problems that only requires one step at the start, and not have to use a mandrel to set the ID, and straight in the neck for setting the bullet. I have a Wilson blank seating die, that I have cut to seat my bullets with. Again tell me where that wrong. I am still learning at 74. [/QUOTE]
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