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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Problem taking apart winchester model 70
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<blockquote data-quote="sable tireur" data-source="post: 1028005" data-attributes="member: 27307"><p>thanman,</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Generally this type of bedding will apply some form of stress to the recoil lug and therefore to the barreled action. Stress imparted to any part of the rifle system results in inconsistency and inaccuracy. And needless to say you have to fight to get the barreled action out of the stock when it is completely unnecessary. There is never any sense to beating a barreled action out of a properly bedded stock, wood or synthetic.</p><p></p><p>The back of recoil lug (the flat surface of lug closest to the receiver) should fit flush against the glass bedding. The <strong>sides</strong>, <strong>bottom</strong> and <strong> front</strong> should have clearance between it and bedding. Find some good plastic adhesive tape. Electrical tape will do. If you do not know the thickness of the tape, cut a couple small lengths. Stack two together and measure thickness with a micrometer until you find the number of layers needed to achieve 0.01 inch thickness. Tape the sides, front and bottom of recoil lug to 0.01 inch clearance. <u><strong> Do not</strong> </u> tape the back of recoil lug. </p><p></p><p>Many times we use a plastic tape found in the plumbing department of a hardware store which is labeled '10 mil'. This works great but so will many of the masking type tapes also. Always be sure to coat all surfaces with release agent or the KIWI shoe polish so frequently mentioned, before applying bedding compound.</p><p></p><p>Regards.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="sable tireur, post: 1028005, member: 27307"] thanman, Generally this type of bedding will apply some form of stress to the recoil lug and therefore to the barreled action. Stress imparted to any part of the rifle system results in inconsistency and inaccuracy. And needless to say you have to fight to get the barreled action out of the stock when it is completely unnecessary. There is never any sense to beating a barreled action out of a properly bedded stock, wood or synthetic. The back of recoil lug (the flat surface of lug closest to the receiver) should fit flush against the glass bedding. The [B]sides[/B], [B]bottom[/B] and [B] front[/B] should have clearance between it and bedding. Find some good plastic adhesive tape. Electrical tape will do. If you do not know the thickness of the tape, cut a couple small lengths. Stack two together and measure thickness with a micrometer until you find the number of layers needed to achieve 0.01 inch thickness. Tape the sides, front and bottom of recoil lug to 0.01 inch clearance. [U][B] Do not[/B] [/U] tape the back of recoil lug. Many times we use a plastic tape found in the plumbing department of a hardware store which is labeled '10 mil'. This works great but so will many of the masking type tapes also. Always be sure to coat all surfaces with release agent or the KIWI shoe polish so frequently mentioned, before applying bedding compound. Regards. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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Problem taking apart winchester model 70
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