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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Primer Pocket Repair
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<blockquote data-quote="Pdvdh" data-source="post: 2125559" data-attributes="member: 4191"><p>Yes, I've used the method on a number of different cartridges. It restores loosened primer pockets and allows continued use of cases that would otherwise risk gas leakage and damage to bolt faces.</p><p>I've used it on .223 Rem, 280 Improved, 7mmRM, 300WM, 30 Sherman Magnum, and 338 Edge. Nary a problem. I still have my eyelids, eyebrows, eyesight, digits and rifle receivers, all intact. The moon is still up there, and the sun continues to rise on the eastern horizon. The difference is I reload my cases for additional firings after snugging up the primer pockets, instead of retiring them to the landfill while they still have potential.</p><p></p><p>Each different caliber case requires a different diameter bolt. I welded my hardened ball bearing to a small piece of 1/2" thick steel plate, so the ball bearing isn't constantly shooting off across the garage floor. I have two different size ball bearings. One is 3/4" diameter, and one is 1" diameter. I show a pic of my ball bearing setup in the thread started by <strong>tbrice23</strong>. The larger the diameter of ball bearing, the greater the swagging down extends down the walls of the primer pocket from the case head. I use both size ball bearings, depending on large or small primer pockets being tightened up. I would not recommend the smaller 5/8" ball bearing. </p><p></p><p>I outside neck turn all of my cartridge cases. Many are wildcats and improved cartridges that require fire forming. Means I've got a lot of case prep time into them, so increased value to getting additional firings from them.</p><p> </p><p>If I overtighten a primer pocket, no worries..., I can open them to perfect size with my K&M primer pocket uniforming cutter tools. </p><p></p><p>I have nothing negative to say about using the method. It doesn't cost much to do it. I use a bigger hammer than shown in the video you posted, and strike the grade 8 bolts harder than illustrated in that video. But it would be good to start like that video shows, until you gain some experience. </p><p></p><p>I've used calipers to measure the inside diameter of the primer pockets. When I get down to 0.2075 to 0.208" on large pockets, I call it good. </p><p></p><p>Could review my posts in the <strong>tbrice23</strong> Thread for additional tips of the trade. My advice... fear not the boogeyman. Give it a try if you feel so inclined.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Pdvdh, post: 2125559, member: 4191"] Yes, I've used the method on a number of different cartridges. It restores loosened primer pockets and allows continued use of cases that would otherwise risk gas leakage and damage to bolt faces. I've used it on .223 Rem, 280 Improved, 7mmRM, 300WM, 30 Sherman Magnum, and 338 Edge. Nary a problem. I still have my eyelids, eyebrows, eyesight, digits and rifle receivers, all intact. The moon is still up there, and the sun continues to rise on the eastern horizon. The difference is I reload my cases for additional firings after snugging up the primer pockets, instead of retiring them to the landfill while they still have potential. Each different caliber case requires a different diameter bolt. I welded my hardened ball bearing to a small piece of 1/2" thick steel plate, so the ball bearing isn't constantly shooting off across the garage floor. I have two different size ball bearings. One is 3/4" diameter, and one is 1" diameter. I show a pic of my ball bearing setup in the thread started by [B]tbrice23[/B]. The larger the diameter of ball bearing, the greater the swagging down extends down the walls of the primer pocket from the case head. I use both size ball bearings, depending on large or small primer pockets being tightened up. I would not recommend the smaller 5/8" ball bearing. I outside neck turn all of my cartridge cases. Many are wildcats and improved cartridges that require fire forming. Means I've got a lot of case prep time into them, so increased value to getting additional firings from them. If I overtighten a primer pocket, no worries..., I can open them to perfect size with my K&M primer pocket uniforming cutter tools. I have nothing negative to say about using the method. It doesn't cost much to do it. I use a bigger hammer than shown in the video you posted, and strike the grade 8 bolts harder than illustrated in that video. But it would be good to start like that video shows, until you gain some experience. I've used calipers to measure the inside diameter of the primer pockets. When I get down to 0.2075 to 0.208" on large pockets, I call it good. Could review my posts in the [B]tbrice23[/B] Thread for additional tips of the trade. My advice... fear not the boogeyman. Give it a try if you feel so inclined. [/QUOTE]
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