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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Pressure Signs Help Needed
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<blockquote data-quote="Tex_Hunter" data-source="post: 1835355" data-attributes="member: 31749"><p>How'd the primers look on the factory ammo when you fired it?</p><p></p><p>Agree with others and have personal experience with Remingtons cratering primers on multiple rifles, even with starting loads. You still have some radius on the shoulder of the primer cups in your first picture so I disagree with whoever said they are flat.</p><p></p><p>As far as ejector marks, is your chamber clean/dry? Even a little bit of oil/fouling can give you a false positive here.</p><p></p><p>Unless you are just a speed freak though and need every last fps for some personal reason, I'd shoot a string of rounds and pick the one's that are most consistent, if you already found a node that was below that top charge you shot, then there isnt really a reason to push things, 3000fps with 160gr class isnt exactly slow.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tex_Hunter, post: 1835355, member: 31749"] How'd the primers look on the factory ammo when you fired it? Agree with others and have personal experience with Remingtons cratering primers on multiple rifles, even with starting loads. You still have some radius on the shoulder of the primer cups in your first picture so I disagree with whoever said they are flat. As far as ejector marks, is your chamber clean/dry? Even a little bit of oil/fouling can give you a false positive here. Unless you are just a speed freak though and need every last fps for some personal reason, I'd shoot a string of rounds and pick the one's that are most consistent, if you already found a node that was below that top charge you shot, then there isnt really a reason to push things, 3000fps with 160gr class isnt exactly slow. [/QUOTE]
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