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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Premier Reticles 5-25
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<blockquote data-quote="gorillamotors" data-source="post: 658160" data-attributes="member: 47855"><p>It doesn't help me when I mount the scope but it does when I zero it out.</p><p> </p><p>I used to just slap a scope on and then zero it out like you guys suggested but got frustrated because sometime it took so long. A marine sniper friend of mine showed me the following method and I have using it for about 25 years. Some scopes are zeroed to 100 yds, some 200 yds, some not at all, and some others who knows what. Some people do not use a 20MOA picatinney as this scope is base on.</p><p> </p><p>If a scope is zeroed at 100 yards with lets say an M852 308 match round or an M118LR 308 match round you have a basic starting point and profile for that bullet so that the cross hairs of the reticle should be on the center of the target (assuming no wind conditions for all of this). From there I can go into my notes and a military ballistics program where I can compute a new starting point for the reticle of any scope for the new cartridge (say a 338 Lapua magnum) to intersect at the center of the target at a certain distance. If I want to change from 100 to 500 or 1000 yards as my zero I can achieve this again by computing a new starting point for a scope. Again this is only a starting point and non-precise but it will get me on the paper and I do have to shoot it to perfectly zero it out. I found that this technique allows me to use less ammo to achieve my goal and like I said at $5-10 a round this allows me to do it cheaper and get less frustrated. I have been reloading for about 40 years and the 338 costs me less than $1.50 and the 50 cal about $2.50 to shoot assuming I have the brass.</p><p> </p><p>Once I zero it out using this technique I them use the normal ways to shoot at closer or farther distances.</p><p> </p><p>Jim</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="gorillamotors, post: 658160, member: 47855"] It doesn't help me when I mount the scope but it does when I zero it out. I used to just slap a scope on and then zero it out like you guys suggested but got frustrated because sometime it took so long. A marine sniper friend of mine showed me the following method and I have using it for about 25 years. Some scopes are zeroed to 100 yds, some 200 yds, some not at all, and some others who knows what. Some people do not use a 20MOA picatinney as this scope is base on. If a scope is zeroed at 100 yards with lets say an M852 308 match round or an M118LR 308 match round you have a basic starting point and profile for that bullet so that the cross hairs of the reticle should be on the center of the target (assuming no wind conditions for all of this). From there I can go into my notes and a military ballistics program where I can compute a new starting point for the reticle of any scope for the new cartridge (say a 338 Lapua magnum) to intersect at the center of the target at a certain distance. If I want to change from 100 to 500 or 1000 yards as my zero I can achieve this again by computing a new starting point for a scope. Again this is only a starting point and non-precise but it will get me on the paper and I do have to shoot it to perfectly zero it out. I found that this technique allows me to use less ammo to achieve my goal and like I said at $5-10 a round this allows me to do it cheaper and get less frustrated. I have been reloading for about 40 years and the 338 costs me less than $1.50 and the 50 cal about $2.50 to shoot assuming I have the brass. Once I zero it out using this technique I them use the normal ways to shoot at closer or farther distances. Jim [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Premier Reticles 5-25
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