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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Specialty Handgun Hunting
Pillar bedded my XP-100R 223
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<blockquote data-quote="nomo4me" data-source="post: 554953" data-attributes="member: 34316"><p>Please note:</p><p>- This is a handgun with escutcheons for both front and rear action screws. One cannot use the usual pillar bedding posts or other aids.</p><p>- I am not a pro and do not present this as saleable or expert work. I'm sure there are better ways to do each of these steps. If you wanna post how you'd have done some particular aspect differently that's fine by me. </p><p> </p><p>Onto the project:</p><p>The foam fill McMillan used for the action fill of these stocks is soft enough to dent with the fingernail so............</p><p> </p><p>For those of you not familiar with an XP-100R, they were made in 1998 and stocked by McMillan. </p><p><img src="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/IMG_4113.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p> </p><p>Brownells adjustable pillars are superglued in place after carefully adjusting for length. Straw sections will help keep epoxy from flowing up into the core of the pillars. They are cut short and will press into the core when the action is seated into the stock. Some epoxy still did get into the core which made me glad I caked the action screws and threads with wax before screwing it together. </p><p><img src="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/XP-100R223bedding001.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /> </p><p>The foam is so soft on this stock that it's a simple matter to poke a 5/8" butterfly bit through it. Just stop when you feel resistance of bit spinning on the escutcheons.</p><p><img src="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/XP-100R223bedding002.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /> </p><p>I tried something new for this job: Took one of the Brownells medium sized syringes and drilled the spout out from the rear with an 8" long 1/8 drill bit. Worked perfectly! I used it like a cake decorators tool to flow epoxy in just the right qtys wherever I wanted. I used Marine Tex for this project because I knew it would flow out of the 1/8" drilled tip. I came out so easily that I think Devcon would also work with this technique.</p><p><img src="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/XP-100R223bedding004.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /> </p><p>Marine Tex applied and ready to seat the action. Using the syringe was so much faster, neater and more efficient than trying to paddle it on with a popsickle stick. </p><p><img src="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/XP-100R223bedding005.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /> </p><p>Got me one of those pump-top dispensers and loaded it up with Acetone. Worth the $17 and then some.</p><p><img src="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/XP-100R223bedding006.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /> </p><p>Tape was laid exactly at the stock line then waxed for easy cleanup. Stock is waxed to of course.</p><p><img src="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/XP-100R223bedding007.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /> </p><p>Reaching a Q-tip in to ensure no epoxy has oozed up into the lug area through the forward screw hole.</p><p><img src="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/XP-100R223bedding008.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /> </p><p>Tools. Vinegar works well to clean your hands of epoxy and saves exposure to acetone</p><p><img src="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/XP-100R223bedding010.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /> </p><p>This 5/8" badger hair artists brush lays down a perfectly thin layer of wax. I was easily able to paint wax onto the receiver bottom without getting any onto the base of the pillar.</p><p><img src="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/XP-100R223bedding011.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /> </p><p>The finished job</p><p><img src="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/XP-100R223bedding012.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="nomo4me, post: 554953, member: 34316"] Please note: - This is a handgun with escutcheons for both front and rear action screws. One cannot use the usual pillar bedding posts or other aids. - I am not a pro and do not present this as saleable or expert work. I'm sure there are better ways to do each of these steps. If you wanna post how you'd have done some particular aspect differently that's fine by me. Onto the project: The foam fill McMillan used for the action fill of these stocks is soft enough to dent with the fingernail so............ For those of you not familiar with an XP-100R, they were made in 1998 and stocked by McMillan. [IMG]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/IMG_4113.jpg[/IMG] Brownells adjustable pillars are superglued in place after carefully adjusting for length. Straw sections will help keep epoxy from flowing up into the core of the pillars. They are cut short and will press into the core when the action is seated into the stock. Some epoxy still did get into the core which made me glad I caked the action screws and threads with wax before screwing it together. [IMG]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/XP-100R223bedding001.jpg[/IMG] The foam is so soft on this stock that it's a simple matter to poke a 5/8" butterfly bit through it. Just stop when you feel resistance of bit spinning on the escutcheons. [IMG]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/XP-100R223bedding002.jpg[/IMG] I tried something new for this job: Took one of the Brownells medium sized syringes and drilled the spout out from the rear with an 8" long 1/8 drill bit. Worked perfectly! I used it like a cake decorators tool to flow epoxy in just the right qtys wherever I wanted. I used Marine Tex for this project because I knew it would flow out of the 1/8" drilled tip. I came out so easily that I think Devcon would also work with this technique. [IMG]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/XP-100R223bedding004.jpg[/IMG] Marine Tex applied and ready to seat the action. Using the syringe was so much faster, neater and more efficient than trying to paddle it on with a popsickle stick. [IMG]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/XP-100R223bedding005.jpg[/IMG] Got me one of those pump-top dispensers and loaded it up with Acetone. Worth the $17 and then some. [IMG]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/XP-100R223bedding006.jpg[/IMG] Tape was laid exactly at the stock line then waxed for easy cleanup. Stock is waxed to of course. [IMG]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/XP-100R223bedding007.jpg[/IMG] Reaching a Q-tip in to ensure no epoxy has oozed up into the lug area through the forward screw hole. [IMG]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/XP-100R223bedding008.jpg[/IMG] Tools. Vinegar works well to clean your hands of epoxy and saves exposure to acetone [IMG]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/XP-100R223bedding010.jpg[/IMG] This 5/8" badger hair artists brush lays down a perfectly thin layer of wax. I was easily able to paint wax onto the receiver bottom without getting any onto the base of the pillar. [IMG]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/XP-100R223bedding011.jpg[/IMG] The finished job [IMG]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/nomo4me/XP-100R223bedding012.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Specialty Handgun Hunting
Pillar bedded my XP-100R 223
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