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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Newbie needs advice
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<blockquote data-quote="doverpack12" data-source="post: 2657552" data-attributes="member: 57848"><p>Your SD and ES look good enough with either. Depending on intended use distance you could stop now with any of those. I'm a big guy and have a 7mm STW unbraked so know and understand how difficult it can be to be perfect every shot and know I didn't influence it. When I do my part my rifle will put a second shot in the first bullet hole so I know when I shoot a 1" group it's me. </p><p>I dry fire before each shot until there is zero crosshair movement on target with the drop of the firing pin. Make sure you are square behind the rifle and either rest your chest on the table and lean forward or shoot prone. Do not angle the rifle across diagonally like most L shaped shooting benches are designed. Sit behind the bench not in the cut out. </p><p>Assuming your shooting for is good and you can manage the recoil for that many shots. I would play with seating depth. Several triangle groups would indicate to seat longer if you have room without hitting lands or exceeding mag length, then the 2 close 1 out seat deeper. </p><p>Probably best to just pick a chard weight (likely best SD and ES) then do a seating depth test. This will let you further explore your best metrics while determining where that particular bullet wants to be seated. </p><p>I like the Eric Cortina method of going in 2 thousandth increments and seating on the long end of a seating band 6 thousandths or so wide. Don't be afraid to go pretty deep even though they are bergers. </p><p>The Berger seating method usually works but the Cortina method has resulted in better groups by finding a better depth that holds group size for longer</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="doverpack12, post: 2657552, member: 57848"] Your SD and ES look good enough with either. Depending on intended use distance you could stop now with any of those. I’m a big guy and have a 7mm STW unbraked so know and understand how difficult it can be to be perfect every shot and know I didn’t influence it. When I do my part my rifle will put a second shot in the first bullet hole so I know when I shoot a 1” group it’s me. I dry fire before each shot until there is zero crosshair movement on target with the drop of the firing pin. Make sure you are square behind the rifle and either rest your chest on the table and lean forward or shoot prone. Do not angle the rifle across diagonally like most L shaped shooting benches are designed. Sit behind the bench not in the cut out. Assuming your shooting for is good and you can manage the recoil for that many shots. I would play with seating depth. Several triangle groups would indicate to seat longer if you have room without hitting lands or exceeding mag length, then the 2 close 1 out seat deeper. Probably best to just pick a chard weight (likely best SD and ES) then do a seating depth test. This will let you further explore your best metrics while determining where that particular bullet wants to be seated. I like the Eric Cortina method of going in 2 thousandth increments and seating on the long end of a seating band 6 thousandths or so wide. Don’t be afraid to go pretty deep even though they are bergers. The Berger seating method usually works but the Cortina method has resulted in better groups by finding a better depth that holds group size for longer [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Newbie needs advice
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