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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
New barrel - is it worth it?
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<blockquote data-quote="tracybartlein" data-source="post: 2814162" data-attributes="member: 12065"><p>To your last sentence first...if it's shooting as good as you say it is.... leave it alone. Burn up that barrel before you fork out $$ to have a new one put on. </p><p></p><p>To the other question about Tikka barrels being slow... what do you base that on? </p><p></p><p>Up to a 100fps on a good normal barrel is what I call is an average spread. </p><p></p><p>Things that affect velocity....</p><p></p><p>What spec was the chamber cut to? Factory loose spec (I don't know what spec Tikka cuts they're chambers to) but some factorys will use what is called a production spec on the chamber. This can have tolerance's +.002" over on diameters than min spec. </p><p></p><p>Is it a Saami / CIP min spec chamber?</p><p></p><p>If you get a new barrel put on is the gunsmith using a min spec. tolerance reamer or something custom... custom can mean bigger or tighter. You get a new barrel put on ask the gunsmith for a copy of the chamber reamer print so you know what was plowed into your barrel if you are not supplying the chamber reamer. That way you know what the spec is. </p><p></p><p>Bore and groove size of the barrel. This also applies to custom shops as well as factory guns/factory barrels. We hold min spec. +.0005" for tolerance on the bore and groove size. You make the bore/groove tighter by as little as a .0005" under min spec. and that will easily drive up pressures 8k to 10k psi which can drive up velocities as much as +150fps. I've seen it on actual ammunition pressure test barrels. Go the opposite way and make the barrels bore and groove bigger than min spec... drops pressure faster which in turn drops velocity. </p><p></p><p>So you have what chamber spec is being used and what is the actual barrels bore and groove spec as well. </p><p></p><p>So when someone says to me.... so and so barrels is faster and so and so barrels brand is slow.... unless you know the above... your guessing and your not comparing apples and apples. </p><p></p><p>On the barrel you need to know the dimensions of the bore/groove to the 4th decimal place. Don't tell me you pounded a lead slug down the bore and measure the slug. </p><p></p><p>Another variable is the actual load. Type of powder and type of bullet and the dimensions of the bullet. I know one manfu. match bullets are held to a given size +.0002" for tolerance. Another maker holds size +.0007" for tolerance. As the bullets are being made and bullet dies wear.... this causes the bullets to typically get bigger in size. Also the amount and type of lube being used can affect bullet diameters. </p><p></p><p>One reason a barrel speeds up is because of carbon fouling and a combination of how good you are cleaning it/how often you clean it etc..... I've seen barrels that have never sped up from the first round fired. </p><p></p><p>You (not just the op here) you as in generally speaking.... but most shooters are chasing variables that they are not even aware of that will have an affect on velocities. </p><p></p><p>Later, Frank</p><p>Bartlein Barrels</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tracybartlein, post: 2814162, member: 12065"] To your last sentence first...if it's shooting as good as you say it is.... leave it alone. Burn up that barrel before you fork out $$ to have a new one put on. To the other question about Tikka barrels being slow... what do you base that on? Up to a 100fps on a good normal barrel is what I call is an average spread. Things that affect velocity.... What spec was the chamber cut to? Factory loose spec (I don't know what spec Tikka cuts they're chambers to) but some factorys will use what is called a production spec on the chamber. This can have tolerance's +.002" over on diameters than min spec. Is it a Saami / CIP min spec chamber? If you get a new barrel put on is the gunsmith using a min spec. tolerance reamer or something custom... custom can mean bigger or tighter. You get a new barrel put on ask the gunsmith for a copy of the chamber reamer print so you know what was plowed into your barrel if you are not supplying the chamber reamer. That way you know what the spec is. Bore and groove size of the barrel. This also applies to custom shops as well as factory guns/factory barrels. We hold min spec. +.0005" for tolerance on the bore and groove size. You make the bore/groove tighter by as little as a .0005" under min spec. and that will easily drive up pressures 8k to 10k psi which can drive up velocities as much as +150fps. I've seen it on actual ammunition pressure test barrels. Go the opposite way and make the barrels bore and groove bigger than min spec... drops pressure faster which in turn drops velocity. So you have what chamber spec is being used and what is the actual barrels bore and groove spec as well. So when someone says to me.... so and so barrels is faster and so and so barrels brand is slow.... unless you know the above... your guessing and your not comparing apples and apples. On the barrel you need to know the dimensions of the bore/groove to the 4th decimal place. Don't tell me you pounded a lead slug down the bore and measure the slug. Another variable is the actual load. Type of powder and type of bullet and the dimensions of the bullet. I know one manfu. match bullets are held to a given size +.0002" for tolerance. Another maker holds size +.0007" for tolerance. As the bullets are being made and bullet dies wear.... this causes the bullets to typically get bigger in size. Also the amount and type of lube being used can affect bullet diameters. One reason a barrel speeds up is because of carbon fouling and a combination of how good you are cleaning it/how often you clean it etc..... I've seen barrels that have never sped up from the first round fired. You (not just the op here) you as in generally speaking.... but most shooters are chasing variables that they are not even aware of that will have an affect on velocities. Later, Frank Bartlein Barrels [/QUOTE]
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New barrel - is it worth it?
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