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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
NEW 7 SHERMAN SHORT TACTICAL (SST)
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<blockquote data-quote="SteelBanger" data-source="post: 2088495" data-attributes="member: 112192"><p>Take the following with a large grain of salt because I'm in no position to do any educating on this subject! lol My rifle shooting and loading background is 100% with gas guns up until this rifle build so this is my first experience dealing with loading for a bolt gun and I will simply try to explain what I did based on my conversations with my gun smith and others in this community.</p><p></p><p>When I first received my brass and sized them (luckily only the first 50) it took a ton of force to close the bolt on that empty brass. I started slowly bumping the shoulder back to the point I could close the bolt without interference but ended up going to far. That excess shoulder bump, even though it's only a few thousands of an inch allows the case to slightly move forward in the chamber and absorb the energy from the firing pin dropping on the primer, hence the light primer strikes. The thought behind pushing the bullet out into the lands is that will prevent the case from being able to move forward in the chamber which will let the primer take the full force of the firing pin and go bang. I had sent my barreled action back to my smith and he did this very thing and successfully fired one of the rounds I had sent with the rifle.</p><p></p><p>I don't have a modified case yet to thread onto my Hornady case gauge tool so the first time I pushed the bullets out I did it by feel similar to that video you posted, but I didn't have everything quite right. This last time I did it I found that bolt drop method on a different video (same exact process though) and used that to determine my seating depth at the lands so this time I <em>should </em>be good, and they <em>should </em>go bang ... in theory.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SteelBanger, post: 2088495, member: 112192"] Take the following with a large grain of salt because I'm in no position to do any educating on this subject! lol My rifle shooting and loading background is 100% with gas guns up until this rifle build so this is my first experience dealing with loading for a bolt gun and I will simply try to explain what I did based on my conversations with my gun smith and others in this community. When I first received my brass and sized them (luckily only the first 50) it took a ton of force to close the bolt on that empty brass. I started slowly bumping the shoulder back to the point I could close the bolt without interference but ended up going to far. That excess shoulder bump, even though it's only a few thousands of an inch allows the case to slightly move forward in the chamber and absorb the energy from the firing pin dropping on the primer, hence the light primer strikes. The thought behind pushing the bullet out into the lands is that will prevent the case from being able to move forward in the chamber which will let the primer take the full force of the firing pin and go bang. I had sent my barreled action back to my smith and he did this very thing and successfully fired one of the rounds I had sent with the rifle. I don't have a modified case yet to thread onto my Hornady case gauge tool so the first time I pushed the bullets out I did it by feel similar to that video you posted, but I didn't have everything quite right. This last time I did it I found that bolt drop method on a different video (same exact process though) and used that to determine my seating depth at the lands so this time I [I]should [/I]be good, and they [I]should [/I]go bang ... in theory. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
NEW 7 SHERMAN SHORT TACTICAL (SST)
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