got my elite last year. so far i'm not super impressed. decided to deck it out and hopefully this will change my mind. was going to order Aerobolt II's but the store doesn't recommend them. anybody have any suggestions for alternates? also my elite is LOUD. anybody have any suggestions to help with this. my elite is bone stock and I haven't sent it in for the recall yet because I didn't think it was worth the hassle, but I decided to give it another try so i'm sending it in for the recall after all.
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need to accesorize my elite
- Thread starter mortis
- Start date
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WildWillie
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2011
- Messages
- 57
Mortis -
It takes a little getting used too. I've had my Tac 15 for a few years now (Pre-elite) and it was noisy at first. There are some good articles on how to reduce the sound in this forum. But limbsavers and padding the pin that stops the hammer are the 1st things that will help.
I've not tried the Aerobolt II's yet. I will get some later this year but I still have about a dozen factory arrows that I'm still using. (All arrows have been refletched with the Aerovane II vanes and use the lighted nocks from Firenock)
My setup includes the stock scope on an HHA rail for elevation, Timney drop in trigger, QAD drop away rest, and I also added a cheek piece to the stock for better alignment with the scope. I use a hip quiver so nothing else is attached to the bow. At some point I will change out the stock bipod for something a little more versatile in the field. I am also need to get a better sling/attachment.
I use the G5 T3 xbow mechanical broadheads which have taken two deer so far. (Both were broadside shots at 35 yards)
WildWillie
It takes a little getting used too. I've had my Tac 15 for a few years now (Pre-elite) and it was noisy at first. There are some good articles on how to reduce the sound in this forum. But limbsavers and padding the pin that stops the hammer are the 1st things that will help.
I've not tried the Aerobolt II's yet. I will get some later this year but I still have about a dozen factory arrows that I'm still using. (All arrows have been refletched with the Aerovane II vanes and use the lighted nocks from Firenock)
My setup includes the stock scope on an HHA rail for elevation, Timney drop in trigger, QAD drop away rest, and I also added a cheek piece to the stock for better alignment with the scope. I use a hip quiver so nothing else is attached to the bow. At some point I will change out the stock bipod for something a little more versatile in the field. I am also need to get a better sling/attachment.
I use the G5 T3 xbow mechanical broadheads which have taken two deer so far. (Both were broadside shots at 35 yards)
WildWillie
WildWillie,
thanks for the input. I am planning to order the QAD and a timney trigger along with limbsavers. my question for you is did you "pad" the timney trigger? guess I'll have to spend more time trying to find the forums you mentioned. I would just like to find a better than stock arrow for the elite so I can order all at once.
thanks again
thanks for the input. I am planning to order the QAD and a timney trigger along with limbsavers. my question for you is did you "pad" the timney trigger? guess I'll have to spend more time trying to find the forums you mentioned. I would just like to find a better than stock arrow for the elite so I can order all at once.
thanks again
Mike K/NJ
Well-Known Member
Mortis, you don't pad the trigger. You pad the hammer block pin. You have to remove the pin to install a new trigger assembly. During reassembly just slide a piece of peep sight tubing ( or something similar ) over the pin. I did this on mine and it made a noticeable difference. The tubing is very soft, so I'm not sure how long it will last. As for arrows, the factory arrows are good if you strip them down and redo them. They're not on par with the aerobolt II's, but for hunting they're good.
Mike K/NJ
Well-Known Member
Mortis, if you look under the scope rail you will see a small silver bar running horizontally across the opening with the hammer resting on it. You should pad the bar where the hammer strikes it. I just checked mine and the peep sight tubing that I put on is gone. So I have to redo mine and find a different silencing material to use.
Mike K/NJ
Well-Known Member
Mortis, do a search for Timney trigger install, and look for a post by Jon Henry 755 call installing a Timney trigger system. It gives you step by step instructions on how to install a new trigger. Step 6B describes how to remove the steel pin.
WildWillie
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2011
- Messages
- 57
To quiet down the hammer stop pin I did the following:
1st remove the pin partway and then slide some rubber peep tubing over it. You only need about 3/4" of tubing. Then put the pin back in place. (This pin may be tapered and only slide out one way !!!)
Next I took a piece of moleskin (Available at walgreens or drugstore) and applied that over the tubing. I used just enough so it wrapped around the pin/tubing about 1.5 times.
The moleskin provides the protection for the tubing. Otherwise bare tubing will wear down in a dozen shots.
The moleskin finally frayed and was replaced after 2 years.
I got this method from this forum a few years ago.
WildWillie
1st remove the pin partway and then slide some rubber peep tubing over it. You only need about 3/4" of tubing. Then put the pin back in place. (This pin may be tapered and only slide out one way !!!)
Next I took a piece of moleskin (Available at walgreens or drugstore) and applied that over the tubing. I used just enough so it wrapped around the pin/tubing about 1.5 times.
The moleskin provides the protection for the tubing. Otherwise bare tubing will wear down in a dozen shots.
The moleskin finally frayed and was replaced after 2 years.
I got this method from this forum a few years ago.
WildWillie
Mike K/NJ
Well-Known Member
WildWillie, thanks for the tip. I put peep tubing on mine and it didn't last. I'll try it again and use the moleskin this time.
Thanks a mill Mike, the pin you described is the one that I thought would be the one. was going to try some heat shrink tubing on it but that is pretty much the same thing as what you tried. guess I will try to find something else. wonder if a piece of moleskin on the hammer where it strikes the pin would work.. thanks again all your input is greatly appreciated.
To reduce noise of TACs, you really need to replace Factory Trigger assembly with a Timney Trigger. The factory hammer is far to heavy. The factory spring that drives hammer is too strong.
The TAC hammer only has to flip a dog paw to release string holder. Versus driving a firing pin into metal primer.
It is very difficult to find a material that both quiets the factory hammer and will stand up to numerous hard impacts of factory hammer. Whereas, a small piece of polypropylene tubing will take impacts of Timney hammer and quite its impact.
The TAC hammer only has to flip a dog paw to release string holder. Versus driving a firing pin into metal primer.
It is very difficult to find a material that both quiets the factory hammer and will stand up to numerous hard impacts of factory hammer. Whereas, a small piece of polypropylene tubing will take impacts of Timney hammer and quite its impact.
got my elite last year. so far i'm not super impressed.
but I decided to give it another try so i'm sending it in for the recall after all.
When you get your Elite back, if it is not fixed - I would suggest cutting your losses and moving on. This advice comes from personal experience with a different vendor's archery product.
I wasted months messing with a defective product. I also wasted a lot of money trying different possible solutions. I even injured an arm trying to get a factory defective product to work.
All the time, I could have been practicing, accurizing, and enjoying a non-defective product.
