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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Suppressors
Just a question from someone who can't
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<blockquote data-quote="QuietTexan" data-source="post: 2538697" data-attributes="member: 116181"><p>I think so. If you accept what the process can and can't give you.</p><p></p><p>I'm talking a couple minutes in hot water here to get the waxy crud out, not making this thing shine like a new penny. Don't to run it for a super long time, don't use crazy chemicals that would damage the coating or the metal, and don't expect it to do more than remove loose crud.</p><p></p><p><u>Do <strong>NOT </strong>use CLR on a steel can</u>, don't go nuts with a solvent, run the cycle once, if it looks like the finish is lifting off the can STOP. If the surface paint of the can is damaged this process can remove finish and you'd have to respray the can. I'll run the internals of my take-down models through with cleaners but not the outside tube or a non-serviceable can. Maybe someone else here has used a chemical on a can with success, I've never used solvent on a painted/coated part. Dish soap for oil but not a solvent.</p><p></p><p>How this process works is very tiny bubbles form when the water pressure waves move and hit then back off the item. These low pressure bubbles collapse back against the part and the hammer the debris off. <u>They are NOT gentle</u>, especially cheaper ones that make a lower frequency because the bubbles are bigger so they hammer the part harder. This same cavitation process is what destroys propellers - low pressure zones from alone the edge of the prop which opens little bubbles and they collapse and hammer the metal over and over and over. This is why leaving a part in for longer than a cycle is bad - it'll clean what it'll clean pretty fast and after that you're just hammering on the finish then the metal. Mine runs for a max of 480 seconds then cuts off.</p><p></p><p>These are extreme examples because a little HF machine wouldn't ever do this even if it ran for years, but it's important to know that nothing but water and pressure can do this to metal:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]368429[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]368430[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>If you want to go all-out because you're worried about the ultrasonic now.....:</p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.boretech.com/products/decimator-suppressor-cleaning-system[/URL]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="QuietTexan, post: 2538697, member: 116181"] I think so. If you accept what the process can and can't give you. I'm talking a couple minutes in hot water here to get the waxy crud out, not making this thing shine like a new penny. Don't to run it for a super long time, don't use crazy chemicals that would damage the coating or the metal, and don't expect it to do more than remove loose crud. [U]Do [B]NOT [/B]use CLR on a steel can[/U], don't go nuts with a solvent, run the cycle once, if it looks like the finish is lifting off the can STOP. If the surface paint of the can is damaged this process can remove finish and you'd have to respray the can. I'll run the internals of my take-down models through with cleaners but not the outside tube or a non-serviceable can. Maybe someone else here has used a chemical on a can with success, I've never used solvent on a painted/coated part. Dish soap for oil but not a solvent. How this process works is very tiny bubbles form when the water pressure waves move and hit then back off the item. These low pressure bubbles collapse back against the part and the hammer the debris off. [U]They are NOT gentle[/U], especially cheaper ones that make a lower frequency because the bubbles are bigger so they hammer the part harder. This same cavitation process is what destroys propellers - low pressure zones from alone the edge of the prop which opens little bubbles and they collapse and hammer the metal over and over and over. This is why leaving a part in for longer than a cycle is bad - it'll clean what it'll clean pretty fast and after that you're just hammering on the finish then the metal. Mine runs for a max of 480 seconds then cuts off. These are extreme examples because a little HF machine wouldn't ever do this even if it ran for years, but it's important to know that nothing but water and pressure can do this to metal: [ATTACH type="full" width="557px" alt="Cavitacion.jpg"]368429[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" width="551px" alt="Cavitation_Propeller_Damage.jpg"]368430[/ATTACH] If you want to go all-out because you're worried about the ultrasonic now.....: [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.boretech.com/products/decimator-suppressor-cleaning-system[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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