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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
How to improve brass life
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<blockquote data-quote="Dano1" data-source="post: 1238841" data-attributes="member: 14209"><p>J E Custom,</p><p></p><p>We must be thinking alike. I just bought an annealing machine. It is a relatively simple machine and I've been playing with it for a week now.</p><p></p><p>I recently used it on .243 Win cases that I've been loading for 15 years now and probably have 10 loads on some of them. (I like to have several hundred brass of a given cartridge if at all possible.) I rotate through them and it has helped minimize cartridge loss due to splits or case failures.</p><p></p><p>I realized that many of these cases were becoming severely work hardened and harder to size. I decided that it was important to start annealing and did some research into basic annealing. Most of the processes I saw seemed like consistency was a big issue. The only way I decided I could deal with that was with a machine. I found a good one that seems to serve my needs for $275.</p><p></p><p>One thing that really stands out to me is how much variation there is in the metalurgy (sp?) of diffrent brands of brass. And how each brand needs to be annealed diffrently. </p><p></p><p>I am currently going through my empties and annealing them first and then as a batch is fired, annealing them and placing them back into rotation as loaded rounds.</p><p></p><p>I own 3 Ackley cartridges and I also intend to anneal prior to fire-forming the cases. Especially with my 6.5-06 AI. This should help reduce shoulder splits that I have experienced as well.</p><p></p><p>As far as quality of brass is concerned. Federal just plain sucks. Primer pockets can loosen on the 3rd firing even if loads are light. Remington and Winchester are similar and generally good. Hornady is strong, but thicker and requires it's own load data. PMC is excellent and similar to Lapua. It anneals very well and looks just like fresh Lapua brass.</p><p></p><p>I generally use Lake City, and Lake City Match for my .30-06 AI and That stuff is very very strong. It anneals quite well. </p><p></p><p>I just wish there was a good way to tighten primer pockets. I've followed the "How to tighten primer pocket thread" seems like it would work, but It also seems hard to master. It would go a long way to salvaging brass if there was a simpler method to complete that task.</p><p></p><p>Dano</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Dano1, post: 1238841, member: 14209"] J E Custom, We must be thinking alike. I just bought an annealing machine. It is a relatively simple machine and I've been playing with it for a week now. I recently used it on .243 Win cases that I've been loading for 15 years now and probably have 10 loads on some of them. (I like to have several hundred brass of a given cartridge if at all possible.) I rotate through them and it has helped minimize cartridge loss due to splits or case failures. I realized that many of these cases were becoming severely work hardened and harder to size. I decided that it was important to start annealing and did some research into basic annealing. Most of the processes I saw seemed like consistency was a big issue. The only way I decided I could deal with that was with a machine. I found a good one that seems to serve my needs for $275. One thing that really stands out to me is how much variation there is in the metalurgy (sp?) of diffrent brands of brass. And how each brand needs to be annealed diffrently. I am currently going through my empties and annealing them first and then as a batch is fired, annealing them and placing them back into rotation as loaded rounds. I own 3 Ackley cartridges and I also intend to anneal prior to fire-forming the cases. Especially with my 6.5-06 AI. This should help reduce shoulder splits that I have experienced as well. As far as quality of brass is concerned. Federal just plain sucks. Primer pockets can loosen on the 3rd firing even if loads are light. Remington and Winchester are similar and generally good. Hornady is strong, but thicker and requires it's own load data. PMC is excellent and similar to Lapua. It anneals very well and looks just like fresh Lapua brass. I generally use Lake City, and Lake City Match for my .30-06 AI and That stuff is very very strong. It anneals quite well. I just wish there was a good way to tighten primer pockets. I've followed the "How to tighten primer pocket thread" seems like it would work, but It also seems hard to master. It would go a long way to salvaging brass if there was a simpler method to complete that task. Dano [/QUOTE]
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