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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Help with 30-30 reloading and zero
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<blockquote data-quote="MagnumManiac" data-source="post: 2162642" data-attributes="member: 10755"><p>You will NEVER see over pressure signs in a 30-30, just doesn't produce enough pressure.</p><p>If you see a hesitation while trying to open the lever, even if a tiny amount sticky, STOP right there and lower the charge ONE GRAIN. If the lever springs open, even a little upon firing, STOP, you have surpassed the safe limit for the gun, the action is springing.</p><p>If you see backed out primers, like my 1908/9 Winnie '94, then it has excessive headspace and you need to find brass with a thicker rim. It will just mean that when you size, only size enough that the brass goes back in firm, otherwise in 1-2 more firings you will get incipient case head separations.</p><p>As I said, ball powders work the best in the 30-30, bulky stick powders don't seem to work too well in my experience. H4895 left unburnt powder everywhere for me.</p><p></p><p>Cheers.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MagnumManiac, post: 2162642, member: 10755"] You will NEVER see over pressure signs in a 30-30, just doesn’t produce enough pressure. If you see a hesitation while trying to open the lever, even if a tiny amount sticky, STOP right there and lower the charge ONE GRAIN. If the lever springs open, even a little upon firing, STOP, you have surpassed the safe limit for the gun, the action is springing. If you see backed out primers, like my 1908/9 Winnie ‘94, then it has excessive headspace and you need to find brass with a thicker rim. It will just mean that when you size, only size enough that the brass goes back in firm, otherwise in 1-2 more firings you will get incipient case head separations. As I said, ball powders work the best in the 30-30, bulky stick powders don’t seem to work too well in my experience. H4895 left unburnt powder everywhere for me. Cheers. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Help with 30-30 reloading and zero
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