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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Headspace Gauges
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<blockquote data-quote="biednick" data-source="post: 2784334" data-attributes="member: 123604"><p>Tape on the back of a go gauge will be shorter than most no go gauges, but will always be longer than the go gauge without tape. No go gauges are generally right in the middle of the headspace range, somewhere around .005" longer than a go gauge. A piece of tape adds .002" or so. Using tape is a test for a tight chamber, not a safe chamber. The same is true of no go gauges, but a taped go gauge will fail a tighter chamber than a no go gauge. </p><p></p><p>A set of gauges in .001" increments across the whole headspace range is the best option, but most of us aren't going to buy 10 gauges for a single caliber. </p><p></p><p>It doesn't matter if the tape compresses. If it closes on a go and doesn't close on a go with tape you're in spec.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="biednick, post: 2784334, member: 123604"] Tape on the back of a go gauge will be shorter than most no go gauges, but will always be longer than the go gauge without tape. No go gauges are generally right in the middle of the headspace range, somewhere around .005" longer than a go gauge. A piece of tape adds .002" or so. Using tape is a test for a tight chamber, not a safe chamber. The same is true of no go gauges, but a taped go gauge will fail a tighter chamber than a no go gauge. A set of gauges in .001" increments across the whole headspace range is the best option, but most of us aren't going to buy 10 gauges for a single caliber. It doesn't matter if the tape compresses. If it closes on a go and doesn't close on a go with tape you're in spec. [/QUOTE]
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Headspace Gauges
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