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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Hand lapping vs. fire lapping vs. traditional barrel break in
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<blockquote data-quote="zupatun" data-source="post: 479684" data-attributes="member: 3533"><p>New factory barrel? If I had access to a borescope I'd take a look at it to get a general sense of the machining and then I'd break in the barrel normally and see how it shoots.</p><p></p><p>If this is a custom barrel you shouldn't need to polish or fire polish the barrel IMO.</p><p></p><p>If it doesn't shoot well and fouls badly after the first 100 rounds or so I would consider having a smith polish it, or fire polish it with Tubbs.</p><p></p><p>I have used Tubbs on a Factory Tikka varmint in 308 and it was effective...much easier to clean and a measureable improvement in accuracy. From about 1.25MOA with 168gr fed match to about 0.8 or 0.9 MOA groups...</p><p></p><p>Best load with this rifle after Tubbs was a ten shot group about 0.68" at 100 yards using 42.0gr of Varget behind 175Gr SMK.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="zupatun, post: 479684, member: 3533"] New factory barrel? If I had access to a borescope I'd take a look at it to get a general sense of the machining and then I'd break in the barrel normally and see how it shoots. If this is a custom barrel you shouldn't need to polish or fire polish the barrel IMO. If it doesn't shoot well and fouls badly after the first 100 rounds or so I would consider having a smith polish it, or fire polish it with Tubbs. I have used Tubbs on a Factory Tikka varmint in 308 and it was effective...much easier to clean and a measureable improvement in accuracy. From about 1.25MOA with 168gr fed match to about 0.8 or 0.9 MOA groups... Best load with this rifle after Tubbs was a ten shot group about 0.68" at 100 yards using 42.0gr of Varget behind 175Gr SMK. [/QUOTE]
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Hand lapping vs. fire lapping vs. traditional barrel break in
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