Hand lapping vs. fire lapping vs. traditional barrel break in

[.260 Rem]

Another question from a newbie. What's the general concensus on fire lapping, hand lapping or just shoot-clean, shoot-clean, etc for breaking in a new barrel? Or is it lap the barrel then still shoot-clean as usual?
Thanks.
Jay

 

[J E Custom]

Another question from a newbie. What's the general concensus on fire lapping, hand lapping or just shoot-clean, shoot-clean, etc for breaking in a new barrel? Or is it lap the barrel then still shoot-clean as usual?
Thanks.
Jay

Most custom barrels are already hand lapped and do not need anything done to them except
the break in.

The only reason to re-lapp or fire lapp is if there is a problem with a used barrel.

I would recommend the shoot and clean method of break in or nothing on new barrels.

J E CUSTOM

 

[zupatun]

Another question from a newbie. What's the general concensus on fire lapping, hand lapping or just shoot-clean, shoot-clean, etc for breaking in a new barrel? Or is it lap the barrel then still shoot-clean as usual?
Thanks.
Jay

New factory barrel? If I had access to a borescope I'd take a look at it to get a general sense of the machining and then I'd break in the barrel normally and see how it shoots.

If this is a custom barrel you shouldn't need to polish or fire polish the barrel IMO.

If it doesn't shoot well and fouls badly after the first 100 rounds or so I would consider having a smith polish it, or fire polish it with Tubbs.

I have used Tubbs on a Factory Tikka varmint in 308 and it was effective...much easier to clean and a measureable improvement in accuracy. From about 1.25MOA with 168gr fed match to about 0.8 or 0.9 MOA groups...

Best load with this rifle after Tubbs was a ten shot group about 0.68" at 100 yards using 42.0gr of Varget behind 175Gr SMK.

 

[.260 Rem]

I should of mentioned this is from E.R. Shaw. I don't know if this qualifies as a custom or production.
Jay