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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
First 700 barrel-changing venture not going so well.
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<blockquote data-quote="Bullet bumper" data-source="post: 905860" data-attributes="member: 17844"><p>You don't want to use those copper rings because on a real tight barrel they may spin and all the pressure is on two narrow spots . marring might happen.</p><p>The whole idea of a collet is to spread out the pressure with a neat fit so friction is great but not all in one spot .</p><p>It's all about rigidity for that first factory removal .</p><p>Any kind of soft material for a collet is likely to be too weak in it's ability to hold fast under torque and friction. Wood , lead and plastic are very weak and not very reliable. Copper , brass , Aluminium alloy and steel are better but copper is hard to machine well because it is too soft and sticky so 6061 T6 or 7075 alloy , brass and steel make good collets . </p><p>The vice needs to be strong and capable of tight clamping , mounted on a rigid structure not a wobbly bench . </p><p>Prepare the collet and the part of the barrel that goes in the collet by washing down with a solvent that leaves no greasy residue . White spirit , Coleman fuel , Shellite , Lighter fluid , </p><p>The slight amount of oil that is present on every gun barrel is enough to reduce friction to a point that a bad setup will not work .</p><p>Keep overhang of the action to a minimum. If for some reason it overhangs too much put a 2 x 4 tom under the reinforce of the barrel down to the floor to prevent flexing of the barrel and action in the downward direct that kills leverage on the thread especially during a hammer blow . Every time some small part of the whole setup flex's turning leverage is lost . </p><p>Dust the collet out with fine powdered rosin. </p><p>An external wrench is better for the first removal as it can clamp on very tight.</p><p>Make it with a short 18 inch handle that can be struck with a big hammer if necessary and be able to have a 6 foot cheater bar slipped over it also.</p><p>A really rigid system will work well with an initial hammer blow and a more flexible system may not and will need the cheater bar to build up slower tension . </p><p>You have to be careful of the advice you take as some people are just switching barrels that a gunsmith has previously removed . They are not cracking the factory barrel lockup . Once that is done lighter gear and side and rear entry wrenches can be used .</p><p>Those vids don't give you even half the story . Both are previously unlocked barrels and easy to crack. </p><p>Some factory barrels are easy and just drop right off and others are a nightmare and two men swinging on an 8 foot bar will not shift them . You are better off starting with metal collets and a good rigid sytem from the get go if you are unlocking factory barrels . If you get your gunsmith to do the initial unlock then you can carry on with the lighter gear . Putting a new barrel in does not require as much force as they use in the factories .</p><p>When striking a wrench with a hammer have the handle in the horizontal position for ease of hitting and the force goes straight down .</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Bullet bumper, post: 905860, member: 17844"] You don't want to use those copper rings because on a real tight barrel they may spin and all the pressure is on two narrow spots . marring might happen. The whole idea of a collet is to spread out the pressure with a neat fit so friction is great but not all in one spot . It's all about rigidity for that first factory removal . Any kind of soft material for a collet is likely to be too weak in it's ability to hold fast under torque and friction. Wood , lead and plastic are very weak and not very reliable. Copper , brass , Aluminium alloy and steel are better but copper is hard to machine well because it is too soft and sticky so 6061 T6 or 7075 alloy , brass and steel make good collets . The vice needs to be strong and capable of tight clamping , mounted on a rigid structure not a wobbly bench . Prepare the collet and the part of the barrel that goes in the collet by washing down with a solvent that leaves no greasy residue . White spirit , Coleman fuel , Shellite , Lighter fluid , The slight amount of oil that is present on every gun barrel is enough to reduce friction to a point that a bad setup will not work . Keep overhang of the action to a minimum. If for some reason it overhangs too much put a 2 x 4 tom under the reinforce of the barrel down to the floor to prevent flexing of the barrel and action in the downward direct that kills leverage on the thread especially during a hammer blow . Every time some small part of the whole setup flex's turning leverage is lost . Dust the collet out with fine powdered rosin. An external wrench is better for the first removal as it can clamp on very tight. Make it with a short 18 inch handle that can be struck with a big hammer if necessary and be able to have a 6 foot cheater bar slipped over it also. A really rigid system will work well with an initial hammer blow and a more flexible system may not and will need the cheater bar to build up slower tension . You have to be careful of the advice you take as some people are just switching barrels that a gunsmith has previously removed . They are not cracking the factory barrel lockup . Once that is done lighter gear and side and rear entry wrenches can be used . Those vids don't give you even half the story . Both are previously unlocked barrels and easy to crack. Some factory barrels are easy and just drop right off and others are a nightmare and two men swinging on an 8 foot bar will not shift them . You are better off starting with metal collets and a good rigid sytem from the get go if you are unlocking factory barrels . If you get your gunsmith to do the initial unlock then you can carry on with the lighter gear . Putting a new barrel in does not require as much force as they use in the factories . When striking a wrench with a hammer have the handle in the horizontal position for ease of hitting and the force goes straight down . [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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First 700 barrel-changing venture not going so well.
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