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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
Epoxy for aluminum pillars?
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<blockquote data-quote="Rustystud" data-source="post: 1615293" data-attributes="member: 9964"><p>I make all my pillars from 6061 aluminum .500" round stock. One end is cut in a mill with a 1.350" radius fly cutter. The OD is grooved with a .125 parting tool. They are cut to length so as the radius end supports the action (make sure it is aligned with the action) and the opposing end supports the bottom metal. The pillar ID is drilled with a .264" (this gives you some wiggle room for screw alignment (not binding). The pillars and stock are cleaned with acetone. I use West Marine two part epoxy (not the fast drying). I mix in with the epoxy West marine .404 polyester fiber. I then mix in my color pigments to match the color desired. I allow the epoxy to dry for 24-48 hours. I use paste wax as a release agent on every place the epoxy can get on. I have 4." headless screws to use in the bedding process. Use wood clamps or rubber hose to hold the action into the stock. If the screws require further length adjustment on the bottom metal end, I do this in the mill. Remember with Savages after the pillars are epoxied the rear pillar must be machined in half to allow for sear clearance. Clean up any epoxy on top of the pillars. You want metal to metal contact on both ends.</p><p>After your action is pillar bedded open up for the recoil lug and free float the barrel in stock barrel channel. After your barrel channel is completely free floated then glass in the recoil lug with the action screwed into bottom metal. If you are using a magazine box between the action and bottom metal, it should not be binding. You should be able to wiggle the mag box with your fingers, (it may require shortening with file or belt sander). If you have done this properly it will improve 95% of rifles made.</p><p>Nat Lambeth</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Rustystud, post: 1615293, member: 9964"] I make all my pillars from 6061 aluminum .500" round stock. One end is cut in a mill with a 1.350" radius fly cutter. The OD is grooved with a .125 parting tool. They are cut to length so as the radius end supports the action (make sure it is aligned with the action) and the opposing end supports the bottom metal. The pillar ID is drilled with a .264" (this gives you some wiggle room for screw alignment (not binding). The pillars and stock are cleaned with acetone. I use West Marine two part epoxy (not the fast drying). I mix in with the epoxy West marine .404 polyester fiber. I then mix in my color pigments to match the color desired. I allow the epoxy to dry for 24-48 hours. I use paste wax as a release agent on every place the epoxy can get on. I have 4." headless screws to use in the bedding process. Use wood clamps or rubber hose to hold the action into the stock. If the screws require further length adjustment on the bottom metal end, I do this in the mill. Remember with Savages after the pillars are epoxied the rear pillar must be machined in half to allow for sear clearance. Clean up any epoxy on top of the pillars. You want metal to metal contact on both ends. After your action is pillar bedded open up for the recoil lug and free float the barrel in stock barrel channel. After your barrel channel is completely free floated then glass in the recoil lug with the action screwed into bottom metal. If you are using a magazine box between the action and bottom metal, it should not be binding. You should be able to wiggle the mag box with your fingers, (it may require shortening with file or belt sander). If you have done this properly it will improve 95% of rifles made. Nat Lambeth [/QUOTE]
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Epoxy for aluminum pillars?
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