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Hunting
Long Range Hunting & Shooting
Epoxy for aluminum pillars?
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<blockquote data-quote="ofbandg" data-source="post: 1615283" data-attributes="member: 91402"><p>I use JB Weld for synthetic stocks. For wood I use an almost clear industrial epoxy I buy at a wood working shop. This allows me to mix in powdered dyes I pick up at fabric stores and try and match up the colour of the stock. Slow cure epoxy is stronger in the long run. The traditional masking tape is a must for protecting any surface you don't want overflow on. The epoxy doesn't stick to it. I also use surgical tubing to hold the action and stock together while it is drying and I put a business card or two at the fore end of the stock to keep the barrel centred in the channel, which works for me because I float all my stocks. Years ago a well-respected gunsmith and shooter taught me that the barrelled action should be just sitting in the epoxy until it drys, with no real stress being exerted on any one part of it.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ofbandg, post: 1615283, member: 91402"] I use JB Weld for synthetic stocks. For wood I use an almost clear industrial epoxy I buy at a wood working shop. This allows me to mix in powdered dyes I pick up at fabric stores and try and match up the colour of the stock. Slow cure epoxy is stronger in the long run. The traditional masking tape is a must for protecting any surface you don't want overflow on. The epoxy doesn't stick to it. I also use surgical tubing to hold the action and stock together while it is drying and I put a business card or two at the fore end of the stock to keep the barrel centred in the channel, which works for me because I float all my stocks. Years ago a well-respected gunsmith and shooter taught me that the barrelled action should be just sitting in the epoxy until it drys, with no real stress being exerted on any one part of it. [/QUOTE]
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Epoxy for aluminum pillars?
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