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Effectiveness of Glass Bedding
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<blockquote data-quote="Alibiiv" data-source="post: 1533864" data-attributes="member: 69192"><p>I don't own a Savage, however have glass bedded quite a number of stocks. I always start by marking the inletted section of the stock and clear about an eighth to three-sixteenths of an inch all around the lug. I then put a mark four inches in front of the recoil lug and then clear that down at least three sixteenths of an inch deep up to the four inch mark in front of the recoil lug. I then try to take about one-sixteenth of an inch the rest of the length of the barrel inlet right to the end of the stock. I use .010 thousandths "pipe tape" from Brownells and put two layer onto the barrel itself, starting at four inches in front of the recoil lug; only on the barrel. I like the tape because once the barrel is removed out of the epoxy you will have a really nice .040 thousandths seam between the channel bed and the barrel, plus you will have a really nice .040 thousandths free floating barrel. I do a test run with the action into the stock and while that barrel is in the stock I use modeling clay to build a dam on the forend of the stock so that the epoxy will not run out when I bed the action. I have always improved accuracy when I have done this. There <u><em>definitely</em></u> will be varying opinions on bedding and free floating a barrel, all I can tell you is that it has "always" improved my accuracy when I do this. I've primarily done Remingtons and Rugers with this process. Also something else that I have done to improve accuracy is to lap the scope rings in once they are installed on the rifle. Wheeler makes a really nice scope mounting kit for around $100. It includes two lapping mandrels (1 inch and 30mm), lapping compound, a couple of levels to get your scope mounted straight onto the rifle, a number of really handy screwdriver bits and some torx bits, and a torque screwdriver. I use the torque screwdriver all of the time when mounting a scope on the bases, and the rings, as well as on all of the action screws. All this makes a difference with your accuracy. As others have written you can work up a load for your rifle. I have two rifles that were made together on the same actions, with the same reamer and by the same gunsmith; one is my son's the other is mine both in 35 Whelen. We both hunt and shoot together, his rifle absolutely does not like what my rifle likes either in bullets, powders or loads. All variables that will affect accuracy and you can find the right one for your rifle. I start with a particular bullet, and powder. From there I will start my loads about a half-grain to a grain below maximum charge and load four bullets, and then decrease the load by a half a grain and load four more rounds until I have used up all the brass making loads one half a grain lower for each set of three. And certainly a really good trigger will help, however from all I have read the Savage already has a nice trigger. So.....you have a lot of variables to think about.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Alibiiv, post: 1533864, member: 69192"] I don't own a Savage, however have glass bedded quite a number of stocks. I always start by marking the inletted section of the stock and clear about an eighth to three-sixteenths of an inch all around the lug. I then put a mark four inches in front of the recoil lug and then clear that down at least three sixteenths of an inch deep up to the four inch mark in front of the recoil lug. I then try to take about one-sixteenth of an inch the rest of the length of the barrel inlet right to the end of the stock. I use .010 thousandths "pipe tape" from Brownells and put two layer onto the barrel itself, starting at four inches in front of the recoil lug; only on the barrel. I like the tape because once the barrel is removed out of the epoxy you will have a really nice .040 thousandths seam between the channel bed and the barrel, plus you will have a really nice .040 thousandths free floating barrel. I do a test run with the action into the stock and while that barrel is in the stock I use modeling clay to build a dam on the forend of the stock so that the epoxy will not run out when I bed the action. I have always improved accuracy when I have done this. There [U][I]definitely[/I][/U] will be varying opinions on bedding and free floating a barrel, all I can tell you is that it has "always" improved my accuracy when I do this. I've primarily done Remingtons and Rugers with this process. Also something else that I have done to improve accuracy is to lap the scope rings in once they are installed on the rifle. Wheeler makes a really nice scope mounting kit for around $100. It includes two lapping mandrels (1 inch and 30mm), lapping compound, a couple of levels to get your scope mounted straight onto the rifle, a number of really handy screwdriver bits and some torx bits, and a torque screwdriver. I use the torque screwdriver all of the time when mounting a scope on the bases, and the rings, as well as on all of the action screws. All this makes a difference with your accuracy. As others have written you can work up a load for your rifle. I have two rifles that were made together on the same actions, with the same reamer and by the same gunsmith; one is my son's the other is mine both in 35 Whelen. We both hunt and shoot together, his rifle absolutely does not like what my rifle likes either in bullets, powders or loads. All variables that will affect accuracy and you can find the right one for your rifle. I start with a particular bullet, and powder. From there I will start my loads about a half-grain to a grain below maximum charge and load four bullets, and then decrease the load by a half a grain and load four more rounds until I have used up all the brass making loads one half a grain lower for each set of three. And certainly a really good trigger will help, however from all I have read the Savage already has a nice trigger. So.....you have a lot of variables to think about. [/QUOTE]
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