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The Basics, Starting Out
E Lock or Dial
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<blockquote data-quote="Jester896" data-source="post: 2127191" data-attributes="member: 41793"><p>OK</p><p></p><p>you can't cut the leads to a keypad and touch a 9V battery to it to get it open</p><p></p><p>I hate that some here have had a bad locksmith experience...safe drill bits are carbide or diamond tipped for the most part. You can also use a concrete bit like the type you use in a hammer drill...not the ones that look chrome plated. That is about all you are going to be able to drill the Rockwell C-60 hard plate behind the interior lock parts in most of them with. There isn't a real need to drill anything larger than 1/4" to get the unit open in most cases. They are repairable to the original integrity or better. The only thing that is really torn up is the owners feelings <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p></p><p>Dials on mechanical locks that open at 87 are usually key locking dials or key locking dials that there isn't a key cylinder in and they used a cover plate for the convertible dial. A standard dial (non key locking) generally stops at 96.</p><p></p><p>I like S&G for the most parts in both mechanical or electronic. Most of the better American locks are EMP resistant and many of the imported ones. S&G 6120 series can be drilled without penetrating the container depending on what the issue is.</p><p></p><p>The main thing that causes electronic failures is excessive pressure from the safe bolt work. Some are better at overcoming that when the lock has a part that manually retracts the safe lock bolt...very similar to the door bolt work handle. Some units have a small amount of pressure most of the time...when you couple that with all the excess loose stuff under the lower locking bolts and you close and lock the door with that big spoke handle you may never realize you are destroying your safe lock.</p><p></p><p>[USER=108067]@SEGARE[/USER] was there something else you wanted my to cover?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jester896, post: 2127191, member: 41793"] OK you can't cut the leads to a keypad and touch a 9V battery to it to get it open I hate that some here have had a bad locksmith experience...safe drill bits are carbide or diamond tipped for the most part. You can also use a concrete bit like the type you use in a hammer drill...not the ones that look chrome plated. That is about all you are going to be able to drill the Rockwell C-60 hard plate behind the interior lock parts in most of them with. There isn't a real need to drill anything larger than 1/4" to get the unit open in most cases. They are repairable to the original integrity or better. The only thing that is really torn up is the owners feelings :D Dials on mechanical locks that open at 87 are usually key locking dials or key locking dials that there isn't a key cylinder in and they used a cover plate for the convertible dial. A standard dial (non key locking) generally stops at 96. I like S&G for the most parts in both mechanical or electronic. Most of the better American locks are EMP resistant and many of the imported ones. S&G 6120 series can be drilled without penetrating the container depending on what the issue is. The main thing that causes electronic failures is excessive pressure from the safe bolt work. Some are better at overcoming that when the lock has a part that manually retracts the safe lock bolt...very similar to the door bolt work handle. Some units have a small amount of pressure most of the time...when you couple that with all the excess loose stuff under the lower locking bolts and you close and lock the door with that big spoke handle you may never realize you are destroying your safe lock. [USER=108067]@SEGARE[/USER] was there something else you wanted my to cover? [/QUOTE]
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