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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Devcon for bedding
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<blockquote data-quote="jpndave" data-source="post: 1854193" data-attributes="member: 5437"><p>The instructions do call for a 1:1 ratio. One FULL container of resin to one FULL container of hardener contained in the kit. If not using all of the material in the kit then the by weight or volume ratios listed previously apply.</p><p></p><p>Kiwi Neutral shoe polish works nicely for release and plumbers putty for dams and block outs.</p><p></p><p>There are more arguably "professionals" who recommend the Devcon than the Pro-bed 2000. I haven't used pro-bed but would like to try it. Devcon putty (including the aluminum putty) works extremely well.</p><p></p><p>As to heat/temperature and time. Epoxies are exothermic (create heat while curing) and also extremely heat sensitive while curing. The last stock I did a bit of Devcons recommended heat cure and that turned out nicer. Temps were elevated to maybe 95F (since that's all I could get with my setup) after the initial set at ~70F per their recommended time line. It worked very well.</p><p></p><p>As to all the quoted ratios, weights, times, etc. All of these need to retain whatever value is attached to it. To say mix at 1:1 or 2.5:1 or 9:1 may all be correct but we need to keep all the information. 1:1 as packaged or 2.5:1 by volume or 9:1 by weight. Also we need to be sure to be talking about the same product. Devcon makes a lot of epoxies and the all can have different properties and mix ratios. More hardener does not necessarily make it kick faster and can have devastating effects on strength. 24hrs at 60F could still be soft where 12 at 75F cured enough to work and maybe 2hrs@70F then 6hrs@100F gives optimal cure. (Don't use these numbers as I'm just going from memory here and would look it up to be sure.) There really is a science to this stuff. Volume of epoxy in the rifle makes a difference too. Thinner sections generate less heat.</p><p></p><p>No need for anyone to get judgemental or hostel about this. I've made simpler mistakes. Let those comments roll off your back. The existing bedding does need to come out.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jpndave, post: 1854193, member: 5437"] The instructions do call for a 1:1 ratio. One FULL container of resin to one FULL container of hardener contained in the kit. If not using all of the material in the kit then the by weight or volume ratios listed previously apply. Kiwi Neutral shoe polish works nicely for release and plumbers putty for dams and block outs. There are more arguably "professionals" who recommend the Devcon than the Pro-bed 2000. I haven't used pro-bed but would like to try it. Devcon putty (including the aluminum putty) works extremely well. As to heat/temperature and time. Epoxies are exothermic (create heat while curing) and also extremely heat sensitive while curing. The last stock I did a bit of Devcons recommended heat cure and that turned out nicer. Temps were elevated to maybe 95F (since that's all I could get with my setup) after the initial set at ~70F per their recommended time line. It worked very well. As to all the quoted ratios, weights, times, etc. All of these need to retain whatever value is attached to it. To say mix at 1:1 or 2.5:1 or 9:1 may all be correct but we need to keep all the information. 1:1 as packaged or 2.5:1 by volume or 9:1 by weight. Also we need to be sure to be talking about the same product. Devcon makes a lot of epoxies and the all can have different properties and mix ratios. More hardener does not necessarily make it kick faster and can have devastating effects on strength. 24hrs at 60F could still be soft where 12 at 75F cured enough to work and maybe 2hrs@70F then 6hrs@100F gives optimal cure. (Don't use these numbers as I'm just going from memory here and would look it up to be sure.) There really is a science to this stuff. Volume of epoxy in the rifle makes a difference too. Thinner sections generate less heat. No need for anyone to get judgemental or hostel about this. I've made simpler mistakes. Let those comments roll off your back. The existing bedding does need to come out. [/QUOTE]
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