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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Deburring flash hole & annealing questions
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<blockquote data-quote="Alibiiv" data-source="post: 1673007" data-attributes="member: 69192"><p>I recently bought a some new reloading equipment, and playing with them in the basement. I have been reloading for 55+ years; yet, until I started to read the forum there were some steps that ought to have been done and weren't. In reference to primer pockets, I've been reaming those out, seems straight foward with the primer pocket uniforming tool. Now.....the flash holes, I'm using the RCBS flash hole deburring tool with the sleeve. I've not had any difficulty figuring out how the tool works; however, how does one set the depth of the cutter. My concern is that I don't want to go too deep, yet I want to remove the burr left from the manufacturer. Yes one can look inside of the casing, it just seems like there is a better way than that, or is there a better tool to use instead?</p><p></p><p>Today I annealed 60, .270 Winchester brass so that I can fireform them to .270AI, and I did some 35 Whelen brass. I did the 550C for 6 seconds and then quench; the manufacturer recomends 5-7 seconds in the salt bath. The discoloration goes down about 1/2 inch below the shoulder. Is there a way to determine if the cases are done properly or over-annealed?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Alibiiv, post: 1673007, member: 69192"] I recently bought a some new reloading equipment, and playing with them in the basement. I have been reloading for 55+ years; yet, until I started to read the forum there were some steps that ought to have been done and weren't. In reference to primer pockets, I've been reaming those out, seems straight foward with the primer pocket uniforming tool. Now.....the flash holes, I'm using the RCBS flash hole deburring tool with the sleeve. I've not had any difficulty figuring out how the tool works; however, how does one set the depth of the cutter. My concern is that I don't want to go too deep, yet I want to remove the burr left from the manufacturer. Yes one can look inside of the casing, it just seems like there is a better way than that, or is there a better tool to use instead? Today I annealed 60, .270 Winchester brass so that I can fireform them to .270AI, and I did some 35 Whelen brass. I did the 550C for 6 seconds and then quench; the manufacturer recomends 5-7 seconds in the salt bath. The discoloration goes down about 1/2 inch below the shoulder. Is there a way to determine if the cases are done properly or over-annealed? [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Deburring flash hole & annealing questions
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