Cracked Stock
- Thread starter 280Luxus
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mnshortdraw
Well-Known Member
Another vote for titebond 3. Ask a commercial woodworker and you'll get the same answer.
Porkbelly the 1st
New Member
As a former professional woodworker, I agree with the members who recommend Titebond 3. It is much stronger than you need and cleans up easily with water. I'd use a stiff brush to distribute a thin layer on both stock pieces before clamping. I'd also advise using some softwood blocks between your stock and clamps, so as to not dent the wood stock. (get the clamps snug, but don't overtitghten) Glue will squeeze out of the joint. Assuming you haven't stripped the stock's finish, you should clean the wet glue squeeze out off with a damp (not wet) rag or paper towel. You stand a good chance of a nearly invisible repair. (If your t-bolt shoots like the one I have in .17hmr, you have an amazing rifle)
WestCoastLogger
New Member
Tite Bond III will never break in the same spot. I have used it to manufacture bunk beds for 22 years and test all of the build up board ends that I cut off. NEVER HAVE I HAD IT BREAK AT THE GLUE LINE IF THERE IS GOOD GLUE VOLUMN AND FAIR PRESSURE. DON'T SQUEEZE ALL OF THE GLUE OUT.
Murtfree
Well-Known Member
I worked in 2 different gun shops over the years and have worked on lots of broken stocks and Acraglas Resin/hardner is all we ever used. You will never break the stock in that place again. If its a nice clean break, fill the crack and then clamp and the excess will ooze out. Then clean the excess off with household vinegar on a paper towel and you probably won't even have to sand or refinish. We never used stain because the Acraglass is clear and there will be so little in the crack it will take on the color of the finish. I always have a quart on hand for repairs and glass bedding
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Lefty38-55
Well-Known Member
I don't believe in solid dowels, unless heavily grooved the entire lengthwise of the piece, as if otherwise used in a blind hole, it can force a 'dry joint' by pushing out all of the glue out of the hole as the dowel enters it or it stops before the bottom of the hle due to the trapped air.
I use carbon arrow shaft pieces with holes cut in the sides to mimic 'Swiss Cheese', as this gives both a chemical (epoxy) and mechanical (glue locks into the holes) bond to the wood stock. If needed, a bambood dowel can be inserted into the shaft.
I use carbon arrow shaft pieces with holes cut in the sides to mimic 'Swiss Cheese', as this gives both a chemical (epoxy) and mechanical (glue locks into the holes) bond to the wood stock. If needed, a bambood dowel can be inserted into the shaft.
If it's a clean break with no splinters or chips missing then titebond III.
If it's just a crack that can't be opened up then cyanoacrylate thin. The thin will go all the way into the crack. Be quick with your clamps. You wouldn't believe how much this is being used for last minute repairs on custom cabinets and furniture.
If you have chips and splinters missing then there are other options but I would not recommend gorilla glue. It will expand to fill the voids but that cured foam isn't that structurally strong.
If it's just a crack that can't be opened up then cyanoacrylate thin. The thin will go all the way into the crack. Be quick with your clamps. You wouldn't believe how much this is being used for last minute repairs on custom cabinets and furniture.
If you have chips and splinters missing then there are other options but I would not recommend gorilla glue. It will expand to fill the voids but that cured foam isn't that structurally strong.
DarryH
Well-Known Member
Just curious, is there a story about how it got broken!!
West Systems epoxy.
milo-2
Well-Known Member
Excellent point on clamping, I was waiting for pic from the OP before I suggested making some sort of jig to ensure even clamping.
Looks like we are still fixing a problem for the OP who has not responded in 3 days, lol.
