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The Basics, Starting Out
Cleaning with patches only
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<blockquote data-quote="crkckr" data-source="post: 2775244" data-attributes="member: 78056"><p>There is so much in the way of opinions floating around on this subject it's not even funny. I guess each one is a fact for whoever holds it but trying to convince someone else? Not a chance!</p><p></p><p>I have a really good Oly rigid scope (swap meet find) that really shows the detail. I ran a bronze brush down my Hart custom barrel just once (it was brand new) and will never do it again! It left small but obvious scratches all the way down the barrel. You'll have to take my word for it because I don't have, and cannot afford, a camera attachment for it. </p><p></p><p>While it's hard to believe that a nylon, bronze or bore snake could harm your barrel, they fact is they can. For that fact, so can a dirty, coated rod! They pick up the crud (that's a technical word by the way!) that gets left in your barrel and it's like valve grinding compound. Chances are good you will never notice it in a factory barrel that already looks like 20 miles of gravel road but if you have a hand lapped custom barrel... well it's your barrel, do what you like!</p><p></p><p>The way I clean all my accurate rifle barrels is to first use just a patch and something like Hoppe's #9 to get the majority of the actual debris left in barrel out. Then I use an undersized nylon brush wrapped with a patch and use one of several copper removers, such as Wipe Out (my #1 favorite), Montana Extreme Copper Killer, Hoppes Elite (slow, but works), Butches or Shooters Choice (both slow) or Sweets 7.62. All of these will remove the copper build up that's visible at the muzzle but can be hiding anywhere in the length of the barrel. And the fact is, that in most cases, just one of them will not get all the copper out! *With today's chemicals there is no need to scrub with any kind of brush!* If there is carbon left in the barrel then use a product such as BoreTech Carbon Remover or Slip 2000 Carbon Killer. RTFD for each chemical mentioned and do not exceed the times the manufacturer recomnends! Since I moly plate most of my rifle bullets, I usually need something in the way of JB Bore Cleaner if I want to get to bare metal. I always try the Bore Polish (purple) stuff first and if that doesn't do it, I use the Bore Cleaning Compound. Any of these chemicals can cause what looks like surface corrosion if left in the barrel to long, with the exception of Wipe Out, the only one I would (but don't) leave the barrel over nite (ok, I do in the SKS but it's an SKS!).</p><p></p><p>Everyone that shoots a custom rifle, or even a factory rifle that just happens to shoot really well (and yes, Virginia, it does happen!) will develope his or her own method of cleaning. I got mine from some benchresters years ago and stick with it because it works for me! Your mileage will likely be way, way different!</p><p>Cheers, </p><p>crkckr</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="crkckr, post: 2775244, member: 78056"] There is so much in the way of opinions floating around on this subject it's not even funny. I guess each one is a fact for whoever holds it but trying to convince someone else? Not a chance! I have a really good Oly rigid scope (swap meet find) that really shows the detail. I ran a bronze brush down my Hart custom barrel just once (it was brand new) and will never do it again! It left small but obvious scratches all the way down the barrel. You'll have to take my word for it because I don't have, and cannot afford, a camera attachment for it. While it's hard to believe that a nylon, bronze or bore snake could harm your barrel, they fact is they can. For that fact, so can a dirty, coated rod! They pick up the crud (that's a technical word by the way!) that gets left in your barrel and it's like valve grinding compound. Chances are good you will never notice it in a factory barrel that already looks like 20 miles of gravel road but if you have a hand lapped custom barrel... well it's your barrel, do what you like! The way I clean all my accurate rifle barrels is to first use just a patch and something like Hoppe's #9 to get the majority of the actual debris left in barrel out. Then I use an undersized nylon brush wrapped with a patch and use one of several copper removers, such as Wipe Out (my #1 favorite), Montana Extreme Copper Killer, Hoppes Elite (slow, but works), Butches or Shooters Choice (both slow) or Sweets 7.62. All of these will remove the copper build up that's visible at the muzzle but can be hiding anywhere in the length of the barrel. And the fact is, that in most cases, just one of them will not get all the copper out! *With today's chemicals there is no need to scrub with any kind of brush!* If there is carbon left in the barrel then use a product such as BoreTech Carbon Remover or Slip 2000 Carbon Killer. RTFD for each chemical mentioned and do not exceed the times the manufacturer recomnends! Since I moly plate most of my rifle bullets, I usually need something in the way of JB Bore Cleaner if I want to get to bare metal. I always try the Bore Polish (purple) stuff first and if that doesn't do it, I use the Bore Cleaning Compound. Any of these chemicals can cause what looks like surface corrosion if left in the barrel to long, with the exception of Wipe Out, the only one I would (but don't) leave the barrel over nite (ok, I do in the SKS but it's an SKS!). Everyone that shoots a custom rifle, or even a factory rifle that just happens to shoot really well (and yes, Virginia, it does happen!) will develope his or her own method of cleaning. I got mine from some benchresters years ago and stick with it because it works for me! Your mileage will likely be way, way different! Cheers, crkckr [/QUOTE]
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