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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Bumping the shoulder with RCBS dies
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<blockquote data-quote="barefooter56" data-source="post: 1030742" data-attributes="member: 85389"><p>PowellSix0,</p><p>Mikecr has the right idea. Not all brass "grows" at the same rate when fired. So follow Mikes suggestion. Problem with neck sizing going along until you need to bump the shoulder back is that the brass becomes fire hardened and since brass likes to spring back you will need to bump the shoulder back farther to compensate for spring back and the brass being somewhat hardened. This works the brass even more and shortens its life. You can anneal to help this issue if you wish. Setting up your full length or body die to bump the shoulder back .001-.003 and sizing it every time ( .001-.002 target, .002-.003 hunting) does not work the brass as much as if you had set the die up per the manufacturers instructions. This helps the brass life and also enables you to load rounds that will chamber every time. Benchrest shooters are going to this so they don't have to worry about a round not chambering during a "run" so they can shoot a condition. The other upside is that they are reporting better brass life too. Another die to consider is the Forster BUMP die. It only does the shoulder and not the case body. And you can use it with or without the neck sizing bushing. The REDDING Competition Shell holders CAN make getting your shoulder bump set up easier. Instead of adjusting the die to get the bump you want. Set the full length, body, or bump die up touching the shell holder with the ram raised to its full stroke using a standard Redding shell holder. Measure your brass with a bump gauge and start with the .010 thick Competition shell holder and work down until you get the bump you want. The above will only work on brass fired in your rifle. Range brass or co-mingled brass is a whole nother can of worms. Hope this helps!</p><p>Take care,</p><p>Phil Hoham</p><p>Berger Bullet Tech</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="barefooter56, post: 1030742, member: 85389"] PowellSix0, Mikecr has the right idea. Not all brass "grows" at the same rate when fired. So follow Mikes suggestion. Problem with neck sizing going along until you need to bump the shoulder back is that the brass becomes fire hardened and since brass likes to spring back you will need to bump the shoulder back farther to compensate for spring back and the brass being somewhat hardened. This works the brass even more and shortens its life. You can anneal to help this issue if you wish. Setting up your full length or body die to bump the shoulder back .001-.003 and sizing it every time ( .001-.002 target, .002-.003 hunting) does not work the brass as much as if you had set the die up per the manufacturers instructions. This helps the brass life and also enables you to load rounds that will chamber every time. Benchrest shooters are going to this so they don't have to worry about a round not chambering during a "run" so they can shoot a condition. The other upside is that they are reporting better brass life too. Another die to consider is the Forster BUMP die. It only does the shoulder and not the case body. And you can use it with or without the neck sizing bushing. The REDDING Competition Shell holders CAN make getting your shoulder bump set up easier. Instead of adjusting the die to get the bump you want. Set the full length, body, or bump die up touching the shell holder with the ram raised to its full stroke using a standard Redding shell holder. Measure your brass with a bump gauge and start with the .010 thick Competition shell holder and work down until you get the bump you want. The above will only work on brass fired in your rifle. Range brass or co-mingled brass is a whole nother can of worms. Hope this helps! Take care, Phil Hoham Berger Bullet Tech [/QUOTE]
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Bumping the shoulder with RCBS dies
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